Stalls all the time
04-19-2017, 04:37 PM
#1
The Long Ride
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 30
Stalls all the time
Background:
I have a trip on Friday. I need to correct this before then or cancel the trip.
Took my 99 to a local shop due to time constraints
Replaced CCT and rectifier
Picked it up tonight and have several issues:
- Will not idle (stalls). Idle falls to 500rpm and dies
- No power, bogs down at heavy throttle
Suggestions? Annual trip to the Dragon is dependant on my fixing this.
Thanks,
Mike
I have a trip on Friday. I need to correct this before then or cancel the trip.
Took my 99 to a local shop due to time constraints
Replaced CCT and rectifier
Picked it up tonight and have several issues:
- Will not idle (stalls). Idle falls to 500rpm and dies
- No power, bogs down at heavy throttle
Suggestions? Annual trip to the Dragon is dependant on my fixing this.
Thanks,
Mike
04-20-2017, 04:20 PM
#11
The Long Ride
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 30
Pulled the tank and air cleaner to see what stood out. Found nothing obvious, although the mCCTs looked odd. In general, should the screw rod lengths be significantly different?
Adjusted the idle screw and she'll stay running now, provided I don't play with the throttle.
Adjusted the idle screw and she'll stay running now, provided I don't play with the throttle.
04-20-2017, 04:56 PM
#12
VTR virgin
Superstock
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 446
Did you verify that the fuel vacuum tap is working properly and lines connected correctly?
If it idles fine but won't take any throttle I'd say you have a fueling issue rather than anything related to the MCCTs. IIRC the amount of thread showing on my APE MCCTs is different front to back.
As suggested above, I would start with the fuel tank, check the mesh screen in the intake is clear, then confirm that fuel flows freely to each carb when a vacuum is applied to the tap; a good mouth suck is enough to open the tap and won't result in a mouthful of fuel.
Just a thought, is the manual fuel tap fully open? That would be anticlockwise looking from the front of the tank.
One other quick check would be drain the carb bowls and see if a decent quantity comes out.
After that I would be pulling the carbs and cleaning jets but I would do that after verifying the fuel supply works.
And one last suggestion. I recall reading where a VTR ran like **** due to a failing battery. Given you had the RR replaced, are you sure your battery is in good health? Are you able to swap in a known good battery for a diagnostic test? If not you could use jumpers from a car battery to the battery positive and the frame, but disconnect the bike battery negative lead so it is out of the circuit.
If it idles fine but won't take any throttle I'd say you have a fueling issue rather than anything related to the MCCTs. IIRC the amount of thread showing on my APE MCCTs is different front to back.
As suggested above, I would start with the fuel tank, check the mesh screen in the intake is clear, then confirm that fuel flows freely to each carb when a vacuum is applied to the tap; a good mouth suck is enough to open the tap and won't result in a mouthful of fuel.
Just a thought, is the manual fuel tap fully open? That would be anticlockwise looking from the front of the tank.
One other quick check would be drain the carb bowls and see if a decent quantity comes out.
After that I would be pulling the carbs and cleaning jets but I would do that after verifying the fuel supply works.
And one last suggestion. I recall reading where a VTR ran like **** due to a failing battery. Given you had the RR replaced, are you sure your battery is in good health? Are you able to swap in a known good battery for a diagnostic test? If not you could use jumpers from a car battery to the battery positive and the frame, but disconnect the bike battery negative lead so it is out of the circuit.
04-20-2017, 05:27 PM
#13
Moderator
MotoGP
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Gettysburg, Pa
Posts: 5,072
It doesn't idle fine...
Maybe if all these suggestions don't work, you could loosen the ccts about 1/2 turn each. Keep track, maybe with a paint pen mark, where they are set now. If 1/2 turn improves idle, run it and see how much better it is. Keep a keen ear for a type of chatter sound. You Do Not want to get too loose, but if they are too tight, it can slow down idle. I've done it, on an f4i to be exact. That cct is a pita to get at.
Maybe if all these suggestions don't work, you could loosen the ccts about 1/2 turn each. Keep track, maybe with a paint pen mark, where they are set now. If 1/2 turn improves idle, run it and see how much better it is. Keep a keen ear for a type of chatter sound. You Do Not want to get too loose, but if they are too tight, it can slow down idle. I've done it, on an f4i to be exact. That cct is a pita to get at.
Last edited by Wolverine; 04-20-2017 at 05:33 PM.
04-23-2017, 05:43 AM
#15
The Long Ride
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 30
No, missed it. Tried backing each off about 1/2 turn and adjusting the idle screw. Idles now, but stalls at the slightest touch of the throttle.
I'm going to need to tear her down and check the cam gears.
I'm going to need to tear her down and check the cam gears.
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