Over heating 98 VTR1000
07-15-2014, 05:55 PM
#91
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R/R already.
07-15-2014, 06:04 PM
#92
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it does get into the red unless i turn the bike off. which about 2 weeks ago i had a benefit for my cousin i was cruising roughly say 10 miles at around 50 mph and my bike was about in the red when i got to the benefit. there was a bunch of us so i couldnt speed up fan didnt kick on. stopped put kick stand down left ignition on and the fan turned on
07-15-2014, 06:59 PM
#93
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Lol! This thing is throwing some crazy codes...
If you were to tell me that last post without the rest, my guess would be still what it was at first: There may be air bubbles in your system, causing improper flow. But from what you've described you've added ten gallons and it keeps disappearing. How much do you think you've actually added? The motor and rads hole 3/4 of a gallon without the overflow tank. The shop that did the rebuild may have put in 1/4 gallon and it filled to the brim, and they called it good. Once the pump started circulating, it wasn't near enough.
The reason I think this is that improper flow can cause strange migrating heat. Your fan switch isn't anywhere near your temperature sensor (that sends a signal to the gauges). Temps may be hot in the rads but relatively cool at the thermostat when the bike is moving or just warming up. The only time they will line up properly is when there's a full pressurized system with no air pockets. Thermostat may have failed, but i doubt it as this seems very correlated to a motor swap.
Possibility two you mentioned: Maybe a faulty R/R not charging the battery when hot (you can load test the battery at an auto store or attach it with jumpers to a car battery (make sure to leave the car off) This is especially possible if you replaced your old broken one with a new plug in type as any resistance or corrosion can deteriorate them quickly. Along similar lines is that there is some wire connection that is intermittently faulty with heat- check for corrosion where everything attaches.
The third possibility: How do you know it's not a head gasket?
If you were to tell me that last post without the rest, my guess would be still what it was at first: There may be air bubbles in your system, causing improper flow. But from what you've described you've added ten gallons and it keeps disappearing. How much do you think you've actually added? The motor and rads hole 3/4 of a gallon without the overflow tank. The shop that did the rebuild may have put in 1/4 gallon and it filled to the brim, and they called it good. Once the pump started circulating, it wasn't near enough.
The reason I think this is that improper flow can cause strange migrating heat. Your fan switch isn't anywhere near your temperature sensor (that sends a signal to the gauges). Temps may be hot in the rads but relatively cool at the thermostat when the bike is moving or just warming up. The only time they will line up properly is when there's a full pressurized system with no air pockets. Thermostat may have failed, but i doubt it as this seems very correlated to a motor swap.
Possibility two you mentioned: Maybe a faulty R/R not charging the battery when hot (you can load test the battery at an auto store or attach it with jumpers to a car battery (make sure to leave the car off) This is especially possible if you replaced your old broken one with a new plug in type as any resistance or corrosion can deteriorate them quickly. Along similar lines is that there is some wire connection that is intermittently faulty with heat- check for corrosion where everything attaches.
The third possibility: How do you know it's not a head gasket?
Last edited by 7moore7; 07-15-2014 at 07:01 PM.
07-15-2014, 07:20 PM
#94
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Lol! This thing is throwing some crazy codes...
If you were to tell me that last post without the rest, my guess would be still what it was at first: There may be air bubbles in your system, causing improper flow. But from what you've described you've added ten gallons and it keeps disappearing. How much do you think you've actually added? The motor and rads hole 3/4 of a gallon without the overflow tank. The shop that did the rebuild may have put in 1/4 gallon and it filled to the brim, and they called it good. Once the pump started circulating, it wasn't near enough.
The reason I think this is that improper flow can cause strange migrating heat. Your fan switch isn't anywhere near your temperature sensor (that sends a signal to the gauges). Temps may be hot in the rads but relatively cool at the thermostat when the bike is moving or just warming up. The only time they will line up properly is when there's a full pressurized system with no air pockets. Thermostat may have failed, but i doubt it as this seems very correlated to a motor swap.
Possibility two you mentioned: Maybe a faulty R/R not charging the battery when hot (you can load test the battery at an auto store or attach it with jumpers to a car battery (make sure to leave the car off) This is especially possible if you replaced your old broken one with a new plug in type as any resistance or corrosion can deteriorate them quickly. Along similar lines is that there is some wire connection that is intermittently faulty with heat- check for corrosion where everything attaches.
The third possibility: How do you know it's not a head gasket?
If you were to tell me that last post without the rest, my guess would be still what it was at first: There may be air bubbles in your system, causing improper flow. But from what you've described you've added ten gallons and it keeps disappearing. How much do you think you've actually added? The motor and rads hole 3/4 of a gallon without the overflow tank. The shop that did the rebuild may have put in 1/4 gallon and it filled to the brim, and they called it good. Once the pump started circulating, it wasn't near enough.
The reason I think this is that improper flow can cause strange migrating heat. Your fan switch isn't anywhere near your temperature sensor (that sends a signal to the gauges). Temps may be hot in the rads but relatively cool at the thermostat when the bike is moving or just warming up. The only time they will line up properly is when there's a full pressurized system with no air pockets. Thermostat may have failed, but i doubt it as this seems very correlated to a motor swap.
Possibility two you mentioned: Maybe a faulty R/R not charging the battery when hot (you can load test the battery at an auto store or attach it with jumpers to a car battery (make sure to leave the car off) This is especially possible if you replaced your old broken one with a new plug in type as any resistance or corrosion can deteriorate them quickly. Along similar lines is that there is some wire connection that is intermittently faulty with heat- check for corrosion where everything attaches.
The third possibility: How do you know it's not a head gasket?
i brought it to the shop he rebled the lines and filled the coolant he said its fully pressurizing and that the fan turned on in front of him last night when he finished before close and this morning to make sure. he said it shows no sign of a head gasket meaning all the coolant lines are stiff no smoke and the R/R is new it was a plug and play and where is the actual temp sensor i didnt realize theyre fully diffrent between fan switch and temp sensor. ive always been told after a motor swap you want to change all sensors. but idk i asked him 100 times he said nothing was wrong with it. theyre a pretty reputable shop around here they have 50 bikes there at a time either getting worked on between tire swaps oil changes and full motor swaps. the same guy has been working on my bike everytime i bring it and ive never had a problem with them. and as you see it does some weird stuff. the smoke has since stopped as well. i think it may have just been condensation when we got a lot of rain i left the garage door open. it didnt rain on my bike but it gets wicked humid up here possiblity its just condensation and there was no oil in coolant or coolant in oil both checked. the head gasket symptoms were kinda of meh time up here with humidity and heat and cool at night. im pretty positive its not a air bubble either because it did the same thing when he bled and refilled the lines before. the coolant filler neck is to full when bike is running the hose between the two rads is hot and hard to compress and i can feel some coolant flowing on the hose is self.
07-15-2014, 08:15 PM
#95
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Hmmmm... and it's a new battery after the R/R? How does the R/R plug look (does it show any signs of burning?)
Yeah, the ECU/Gauges sensor is in the thermostat housing. The housing is the the little black thing with several hoses running into it in between the little V on the frame on the left side. I don't think I've ever seen one fail before, so I wouldn't replace it without testing it. If you're going along those lines, I'd test the rad fan switch and thermostat as well. These take a couple of tools (namely, a kitchen thermometer, pot of heated water and multimeter).
Is your water pump working in the new motor? How are you feeling coolant flowing? I didn't know that was possible from the hose, but I could be wrong.
Yeah, the ECU/Gauges sensor is in the thermostat housing. The housing is the the little black thing with several hoses running into it in between the little V on the frame on the left side. I don't think I've ever seen one fail before, so I wouldn't replace it without testing it. If you're going along those lines, I'd test the rad fan switch and thermostat as well. These take a couple of tools (namely, a kitchen thermometer, pot of heated water and multimeter).
Is your water pump working in the new motor? How are you feeling coolant flowing? I didn't know that was possible from the hose, but I could be wrong.
07-15-2014, 08:21 PM
#96
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Hmmmm... and it's a new battery after the R/R? How does the R/R plug look (does it show any signs of burning?)
Yeah, the ECU/Gauges sensor is in the thermostat housing. The housing is the the little black thing with several hoses running into it in between the little V on the frame on the left side. I don't think I've ever seen one fail before, so I wouldn't replace it without testing it. If you're going along those lines, I'd test the rad fan switch and thermostat as well. These take a couple of tools (namely, a kitchen thermometer, pot of heated water and multimeter).
Is your water pump working in the new motor? How are you feeling coolant flowing? I didn't know that was possible from the hose, but I could be wrong.
Yeah, the ECU/Gauges sensor is in the thermostat housing. The housing is the the little black thing with several hoses running into it in between the little V on the frame on the left side. I don't think I've ever seen one fail before, so I wouldn't replace it without testing it. If you're going along those lines, I'd test the rad fan switch and thermostat as well. These take a couple of tools (namely, a kitchen thermometer, pot of heated water and multimeter).
Is your water pump working in the new motor? How are you feeling coolant flowing? I didn't know that was possible from the hose, but I could be wrong.
the battery i would guess would probably be from around 2009-2013 not sure exactly when. the guy who had it before me didnt have it inspected/on the orad since 2009 - he put 400 miles on it in 4 years i would deff assume thats why the motor blew it probably wasnt properly winterized.
the battery is NOT new its the one i got with the bike itself. and i dont know if i can actually feel it lmao but it deff gets hot. ill put my hand on it around the right rad and i can feel the hose get hot when the coolant would pass to the second radiator. i havent checked the r/r since i replaced it but it starts just fine. and all electronics run well. i mean i could probably replace the battery and see if that fixes it. before i change the thermostat. also assuming water pump is working as well because it was looked at with the bike at the shop. i asked him that as well.
Last edited by shadow623_; 07-15-2014 at 08:24 PM.
07-15-2014, 08:48 PM
#97
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Well, I'm starting to reach my max on 20 questions here! Ok, I don't know if you've ridden it enough to know, but have you had to add water recently? Is it still drinking coolant, or is that part all worked out and it's down to the fan switching on erratically?
As a side note- do you know what happened on the old motor? Did the CCT fail?
As a side note- do you know what happened on the old motor? Did the CCT fail?
07-15-2014, 09:02 PM
#99
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it only has the one like the stock switch. and no i havent ridden it enough.and i lost compression in the front cylinder i am not sure exactly what happened i have the old motor just havent ripped it apart yet
07-15-2014, 09:20 PM
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Well, just for diagnosing purposes, I guess you could wire in a fan switch, haha! After all that, at least it would let you know if having the fan on would cool the bike enough. Although if it ends up working I wouldn't know what to tell you other than you have a wonky fan switch.
What I would do is get a simple 12v 2 prong switch that can safely handle 10A of the fan. Then splice one side of the switch into the wire going from the fan to the radiator switch (leaving this wire in tact still) and one to a ground. In this case, both the manual and automatic switch will turn on the fan (in an ideal world it would mean that your manual switch supplements the rad one).
One like this:
So basically you'll have two grounds coming from your rad fan- one going to the radiator switch and one going to the manual switch. That way if either one is "on" your fan is on.
What I would do is get a simple 12v 2 prong switch that can safely handle 10A of the fan. Then splice one side of the switch into the wire going from the fan to the radiator switch (leaving this wire in tact still) and one to a ground. In this case, both the manual and automatic switch will turn on the fan (in an ideal world it would mean that your manual switch supplements the rad one).
One like this:
So basically you'll have two grounds coming from your rad fan- one going to the radiator switch and one going to the manual switch. That way if either one is "on" your fan is on.
07-15-2014, 09:25 PM
#101
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Well, just for diagnosing purposes, I guess you could wire in a fan switch, haha! After all that, at least it would let you know if having the fan on would cool the bike enough. Although if it ends up working I wouldn't know what to tell you other than you have a wonky fan switch.
What I would do is get a simple 12v 2 prong switch that can safely handle 10A of the fan. Then splice one side of the switch into the wire going from the fan to the radiator switch (leaving this wire in tact still) and one to a ground. In this case, both the manual and automatic switch will turn on the fan (in an ideal world it would mean that your manual switch supplements the rad one).
One like this:
12VDC 20A Two Position ON/OFF SPST 2-Pins 0.47" Mount Black Toggle Switch 10 Pcs: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
So basically you'll have two grounds coming from your rad fan- one going to the radiator switch and one going to the manual switch. That way if either one is "on" your fan is on.
What I would do is get a simple 12v 2 prong switch that can safely handle 10A of the fan. Then splice one side of the switch into the wire going from the fan to the radiator switch (leaving this wire in tact still) and one to a ground. In this case, both the manual and automatic switch will turn on the fan (in an ideal world it would mean that your manual switch supplements the rad one).
One like this:
12VDC 20A Two Position ON/OFF SPST 2-Pins 0.47" Mount Black Toggle Switch 10 Pcs: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
So basically you'll have two grounds coming from your rad fan- one going to the radiator switch and one going to the manual switch. That way if either one is "on" your fan is on.
ok perfect. hopefully the manual switch will solve the issue and not blow the bike up again i plan on doing it this weekend.
07-22-2014, 01:41 PM
#102
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Well guys have some good news I go the switch hooked up and I think I actually do have a leak. Smoking Joe I got a buddy of mine who has a pressure tester and we're gonna pressure test it this weekend to find the leak. I figured I have a leak as my right foot is a little wet everything I ride or rather my foot peg is and I had a little spots of green outside the rad I just don't think k it's enough to cause that large of a leak. I'll keep everyone posted thanks for the support and feedback guys
07-22-2014, 03:16 PM
#103
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Ok so you have to keep filling it with coolant, there's some slightly green liquid that's on your foot and at the base of the radiator after rides, the fan switch isn't acting properly (like there's air in the system)...
Yep, definitely need some new muffler bearings.
Yep, definitely need some new muffler bearings.
07-22-2014, 06:57 PM
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well i actually think that one of the hoses is a little burnt up - inside the motor or it has a small hole. i looked actually right in the center of the V and there is a little coolant build up there. im gonna rip it apart with a buddy tomorrow. everything is flowing fine. so im gonna rebleed the system properly with something my buddy has and pressure test it to find the leak. il let you guys know tomorrow. and i brought it back to the place and they still didnt fix it so i called them and the lady bitched me out saying clearly i dont like their service and they gave me all these freebies and ****. i was like you guys never fixed it to begin with you swapped the motor and a bunch of **** didnt work right after. they gave me a wheel bearing and looked at it for free once or twice AFTER the swap. so if anyone is in the syracuse region DO NOT bring you bike to microbore theyre a joke
07-24-2014, 03:23 PM
#107
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Well I found the leak it is somewhere near my carbs/the v in the block. I just blew it wide open riding Supa fast down the street. I launched it at a light hit 3rd gear and poof coolant everywhere.
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