melted negative Battery Terminal????
01-18-2008, 01:07 PM
#1
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Superstock
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melted negative Battery Terminal????
The story is as follows.
About 6-8 months ago, my VTR was getting hard to start when the bike/engine was cold. It would take between 20-40 cranks/revolutions before it would start. Then one day, while attempting to start the bike, while the engine is cranking... POOF. Everything Electrical goes dead.
I check the battery, and the negative battery terminal is MELTED. The Nut underneath has melted the lead of the battery terminal and poped out the top of the "square cage" it sits in.
So, figuring the battery was about 5 years old, had been hard to start for awhile, I replaced it. There wasn't anyway to 'repair' the slag left on the negative battery terminal. (or is there?)
So new battery, everything is good/groovy. For about 6-8 months. My bike is getting hard and harder to start as winter (or what passes for it in So-Cal) starts. Then the other morning while attempting to start the bike.
POOF.
Yet another melted/welded negative battery terminal!
WTF?
I've tested my regulator/rectifier and it tests out fine.
When my bike got hard to start I tested the battery voltage and it was 12.3V. Battery Tender would charge the battery for less than 5 min, then shut off charging circuit.
So what the heck is causing me to MELT my negative battery terminal? Is there anyway to "repair" or "replace" the battery terminal so I can still use this "good" battery?
About 6-8 months ago, my VTR was getting hard to start when the bike/engine was cold. It would take between 20-40 cranks/revolutions before it would start. Then one day, while attempting to start the bike, while the engine is cranking... POOF. Everything Electrical goes dead.
I check the battery, and the negative battery terminal is MELTED. The Nut underneath has melted the lead of the battery terminal and poped out the top of the "square cage" it sits in.
So, figuring the battery was about 5 years old, had been hard to start for awhile, I replaced it. There wasn't anyway to 'repair' the slag left on the negative battery terminal. (or is there?)
So new battery, everything is good/groovy. For about 6-8 months. My bike is getting hard and harder to start as winter (or what passes for it in So-Cal) starts. Then the other morning while attempting to start the bike.
POOF.
Yet another melted/welded negative battery terminal!
WTF?
I've tested my regulator/rectifier and it tests out fine.
When my bike got hard to start I tested the battery voltage and it was 12.3V. Battery Tender would charge the battery for less than 5 min, then shut off charging circuit.
So what the heck is causing me to MELT my negative battery terminal? Is there anyway to "repair" or "replace" the battery terminal so I can still use this "good" battery?
01-18-2008, 02:34 PM
#2
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Join Date: Jan 2008
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You are obviously pulling one heck of a load while cranking over! The terminal is lead, which has a very low melting point, and when you crank for a long time, it gets hot. It shouldn't get that hot unless you have a loose connection between it and the starter, a starter that is starting to have bad brushes, or possibly a bad battery cable.
I would have to first guess the starter is going and you don't notice it in the summer months because it fires right up.
I would have to first guess the starter is going and you don't notice it in the summer months because it fires right up.
01-18-2008, 04:29 PM
#3
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Yeah, sounds like the starter for sure, BUT shouldn't the fuse blow before the terminal on the battery if it's drawing that much current? Something is amiss here and it sounds like the ground wire has poor continuity. Check the other end where it attaches to the motor.
01-18-2008, 04:46 PM
#4
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Squid
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Akershus, Norway
Posts: 99
Yeah, sounds like the starter for sure, BUT shouldn't the fuse blow before the terminal on the battery if it's drawing that much current? Something is amiss here and it sounds like the ground wire has poor continuity. Check the other end where it attaches to the motor.
With your new battery make sure you clean the cable terminal, or better, replace it with a better quality car hi-fi power cable with good terminals (not sure if gold plated cable shoes are good or bad with the lead terminals?)
Also consider finding some battery grease to avoid corrotion and future problems. While you're at it, remove the regulator and clean up under it and make sure there is no rust or dirt on the contact surface at the back.
01-18-2008, 05:14 PM
#5
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SuperBike
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 1,572
The fuse is not part of the main starter circuit - it is needed to engage the starter solenoid but basically its a direct connection from the battery to the starter with the solenoid controlling it. Starters draw a lot of power and no small fuse would stand up to the current.
Check the ground cable connections, starter connection, etc for any corrosion. Never tried it but some auto parts stores have starter and alternator testing equipment and should be able to tell the draw of the SH starter - does the service manual give any specs as to draw?
Check the ground cable connections, starter connection, etc for any corrosion. Never tried it but some auto parts stores have starter and alternator testing equipment and should be able to tell the draw of the SH starter - does the service manual give any specs as to draw?
There could be a bad starter but even so the fuse should blow if the current is too high. So, either there is a fault both with the starter and wrong fuse, or the terminal is badly connected. The only reason for the terminal to melt is a bad connection. The resistance create the heat, it also lower the voltage under load, and this is most probably your starting trouble. As long as it turns, the starter do nothing better or worse for a start. Voltage to the coils does.
With your new battery make sure you clean the cable terminal, or better, replace it with a better quality car hi-fi power cable with good terminals (not sure if gold plated cable shoes are good or bad with the lead terminals?)
Also consider finding some battery grease to avoid corrotion and future problems. While you're at it, remove the regulator and clean up under it and make sure there is no rust or dirt on the contact surface at the back.
With your new battery make sure you clean the cable terminal, or better, replace it with a better quality car hi-fi power cable with good terminals (not sure if gold plated cable shoes are good or bad with the lead terminals?)
Also consider finding some battery grease to avoid corrotion and future problems. While you're at it, remove the regulator and clean up under it and make sure there is no rust or dirt on the contact surface at the back.
01-18-2008, 07:01 PM
#6
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Yeah, just like in your car, the battery is directly hooked to the starter itself. The starter selenoid will have a fuse or relay that can blow, but the starter draws too much current to be fused. While your starter is turning over, it is basically a direct short internally each time the brushes pass over the windings.
01-19-2008, 06:06 AM
#7
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Yup, good call guys. Not even the main fuse is in that circuit. Check resistances across the battery negative and the frame. Should be less than .1Ω. Same with the starter, between the positive battery terminal and the post on the starter.
RPV, if it turns out to be a bad starter, shoot me a PM. I have a good used one for sale.
RPV, if it turns out to be a bad starter, shoot me a PM. I have a good used one for sale.
01-20-2008, 12:53 PM
#8
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SuperSport
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Fredericksburg, VA
Posts: 714
It might also be cause you're using a cheap battery. I was putting the AutoCrafts from Advanced or AutoZone in my chopper and it did not take long to fry them. One time the insulation on the battery cable caught on fire cause the battery was working too hard. I went to a motorcycle store and spent the extra money for a decent battery designed for big twins. Never had a problem after.
02-11-2008, 11:06 PM
#10
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Superstock
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Posts: 308
Found the problem. Neg Battery Cable "end" was the problem. The hole in the cable end was enlarged to be nearly the same size as the washer. So all the voltage from the Battery Terminal was concentrated in this tiny 1/16" or less of metal/metal contact.
Put a new copper end on the cable and it starts up RIGHT away...doesn't take 20-40 cranks and the battery/cable stays nice and cool.
Put a new copper end on the cable and it starts up RIGHT away...doesn't take 20-40 cranks and the battery/cable stays nice and cool.
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