View Poll Results: How often U change oil?
1000 to 2000
26
13.83%
2000 to 3000
76
40.43%
3000 to 4000
62
32.98%
Over 4k
24
12.77%
Voters: 188. You may not vote on this poll
How often do you - Change Oil?
03-23-2009, 10:09 PM
#62
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: May 2008
Location: San Clemente, CA
Posts: 3,451
I agree shizzy, but no one spews more greenhouse gas than Obamateleprompta. He can't go a single day without holding court for the TV cameras.
He's going to be on Prime Time again tomorrow night. This guy really loves himself.
He's going to be on Prime Time again tomorrow night. This guy really loves himself.
12-28-2011, 12:01 PM
#65
Member
Squid
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 65
Yearly or 8k miles. I always replace the filter. If I remember correctly it drinks a half quart or so over the season.
I ride my bike, I would go nuts trying to change it over the super-short intervals I have seen in previous postings.
I always look in the oil that comes out and try to spot anything strange. If I had a tool for opening the oil filter I would, but I don't have the tool and it's supposed to be a pain otherwise. You would be surprised what kind of things you can find in there.
I ride my bike, I would go nuts trying to change it over the super-short intervals I have seen in previous postings.
I always look in the oil that comes out and try to spot anything strange. If I had a tool for opening the oil filter I would, but I don't have the tool and it's supposed to be a pain otherwise. You would be surprised what kind of things you can find in there.
12-28-2011, 07:02 PM
#67
Retired- but not tired!
SuperBike
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 1,478
12-29-2011, 07:22 AM
#68
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Alto, N.M.
Posts: 153
I used to change at 2,000 to 2,500 mile intervals when I had only a handful of bikes. Now I'm up to 13 bikes and it's hard to ride much more than 1,200 to 1,400 miles on each bike before the snow flies. I always change oil (Mobil 1 10-40 High Mileage) and filters at the end of the riding season but I'm considering stretching intervals to every two riding seasons. 52 quarts of Mobil 1 every year is gettin' more and more expensive- even when buyin' at Wal-Mart. On top of that the local recycling center charges me to recycle the old Mobil 1.
01-04-2012, 11:19 AM
#71
Wild Man
Back Marker
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: California Central Coast
Posts: 189
You guys that are waiting longer than 3k to change your oil are doing some damage to your motor.
Check out this site where riders post their oil analysis-
Used Oil Analysis - Motorcycle - Bob Is The Oil Guy
You will see that most of the time in a wet clutch bike, the oil loses a grade inside of 3k miles. It will be like water if you wait to 8k as the transmission hacks the crap out if it. If you're worried about cost- then use Rotella 15-40 ( jaso ma rated) for $12 a gallon and change it every 2k. Its rated for wet clutches. Search the site pasted below.
I personally- pay the $9/quart Mobil1 synthetic motorcycle oil at Wally World and go with a $2.85 supertech 7317 or 6607 filter ( they are good ) so I am in it for about $40 every 2k. That $15 K&N filter is no better than the $2 Wally World filter.
Motorcycle Oil Filter Comparison
I know that is expensive -but I want my motor to last.
Note: My buddy owns a Honda ST1300 and he runs Mobil1 car oil for $24 gallon every 4k-5k. He never revs it hard. Point is he has 130,000 miles on it and it runs like NEW. Doesn't burn a drop of oil yet. I am afraid to put it in my Hawk since it does contain Moly which can make certain clutches slip. Any feedback for these Hawks would be nice.
Check out this site where riders post their oil analysis-
Used Oil Analysis - Motorcycle - Bob Is The Oil Guy
You will see that most of the time in a wet clutch bike, the oil loses a grade inside of 3k miles. It will be like water if you wait to 8k as the transmission hacks the crap out if it. If you're worried about cost- then use Rotella 15-40 ( jaso ma rated) for $12 a gallon and change it every 2k. Its rated for wet clutches. Search the site pasted below.
I personally- pay the $9/quart Mobil1 synthetic motorcycle oil at Wally World and go with a $2.85 supertech 7317 or 6607 filter ( they are good ) so I am in it for about $40 every 2k. That $15 K&N filter is no better than the $2 Wally World filter.
Motorcycle Oil Filter Comparison
I know that is expensive -but I want my motor to last.
Note: My buddy owns a Honda ST1300 and he runs Mobil1 car oil for $24 gallon every 4k-5k. He never revs it hard. Point is he has 130,000 miles on it and it runs like NEW. Doesn't burn a drop of oil yet. I am afraid to put it in my Hawk since it does contain Moly which can make certain clutches slip. Any feedback for these Hawks would be nice.
01-04-2012, 11:30 AM
#72
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 3,869
Note: My buddy owns a Honda ST1300 and he runs Mobil1 car oil for $24 gallon every 4k-5k. He never revs it hard. Point is he has 130,000 miles on it and it runs like NEW. Doesn't burn a drop of oil yet. I am afraid to put it in my Hawk since it does contain Moly which can make certain clutches slip. Any feedback for these Hawks would be nice.
I think Lazn was the one who pointed it out a few times.
01-04-2012, 07:04 PM
#73
Wild Man
Back Marker
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: California Central Coast
Posts: 189
I'd like to save $20 and run car oil. I am worried about not enough Zinc and Phosphorus in car oil which is needed to coat the transmission parts.
According to the Oil Guy thread, the analysis on car oil in bikes seem just fine.
Hell- perhaps just change it when it looks dirty? After 2k on my Hawk, It starts to look darker so I change it.
An OIL thread is like a car accident on the freeway....there is no reason to look -but somehow you always do.
According to the Oil Guy thread, the analysis on car oil in bikes seem just fine.
Hell- perhaps just change it when it looks dirty? After 2k on my Hawk, It starts to look darker so I change it.
An OIL thread is like a car accident on the freeway....there is no reason to look -but somehow you always do.
01-11-2012, 06:31 PM
#74
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: ABE PA
Posts: 423
Ya think anybody thought of putting a strong magnet on the oil drain plug? After rebuilding the top end of my bandit, and worried about part break in, I stuck one there. I'll take pics of what I find after the season starts...
BTW I personally do the el cheapo way an just change it every thousand...but unlike you liter guys, I gotta rev it out to 12-13k rpm just to keep pace.
An I love oil threads!
BTW I personally do the el cheapo way an just change it every thousand...but unlike you liter guys, I gotta rev it out to 12-13k rpm just to keep pace.
An I love oil threads!
01-11-2012, 07:00 PM
#75
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 344
I'd like to save $20 and run car oil. I am worried about not enough Zinc and Phosphorus in car oil which is needed to coat the transmission parts.
According to the Oil Guy thread, the analysis on car oil in bikes seem just fine.
Hell- perhaps just change it when it looks dirty? After 2k on my Hawk, It starts to look darker so I change it.
An OIL thread is like a car accident on the freeway....there is no reason to look -but somehow you always do.
According to the Oil Guy thread, the analysis on car oil in bikes seem just fine.
Hell- perhaps just change it when it looks dirty? After 2k on my Hawk, It starts to look darker so I change it.
An OIL thread is like a car accident on the freeway....there is no reason to look -but somehow you always do.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Sherm831
Technical Discussion
9
05-18-2010 07:07 PM
luis saleiro
Technical Discussion
22
04-25-2010 04:25 PM
Randman
Technical Discussion
23
03-30-2007 05:38 AM
