Matt_Hawk

On Sunday night I ordered a set of APE Manual CCT's.

This morning I received them...1 1/2 day turnaround. I can't say enough about their service.

I installed them exactly as per the write-up on this forum under the Knowledge section. I have Strong hands from being an aircraft mechanic.

I do need to say one thing about these APE's-- The tension is somewhat vague on these APE's. I installed them as tight as I could by hand while grasping the nut on top. If you have strong hands- don't do that.
I got a faint but noticeable whirring or whistling sound ( more than these Hawks normally have ) from the cylinders. I am absolutely certain I was at TDC during installation as I pulled the rear cam cover and zip tied. The front was done without pulling the cover -but I was certain nothing moved. So, I figured the cam chain was running really tight on the guides and sprockets. I figured right.

I took APE's recommendation of going just hand tight ( without gorilla twisting it) and then backing it off a half turn. Presto. Problem solved. So, I think some Superhawk owners may be installing these too tight.

Any feedback from others installing these?

BTW- I checked the TPS while the airbox was off. It read 800 ohms. So, I reset to 500 ohms ( using the knowledge section procedure) then balanced the carbs. after all this was done.

The TPS modification seemed to improve throttle response in the lower rpms a bit. It's not huge night and day- but noticeable. The high end was unaffected.

THANKS for the Knowledge section of this forum! It's really awesome!

Wicky

The APE nyloc nut can be tricky to tighten if you use a tool to hold the bolt stationary as you lose some of the feel for finger tight - but once you add the 1/4 turn slack as you found out you should be okay. Also add a smear of blue loctite to the bolt shaft thread as it enters the CCT body to prevent oil leaking up past the O'ring.

Matt_Hawk

Good idea.

I used a 16mm to hold the bolt and a 14mm box wrench to tighten the nut.

I put a black sharpie pen mark on the bolt head facing forward so I knew if it was turning ( or will in the future). It worked great. I figured the O-ring would suffice to keep oil leaking out. Your idea of blue lock tight below the o-ring is smart. I did however use some blue LT on the hex head bolts that hold it to the case. I guess I shall see over time if it weeps a bit. I can always go to TDC, back them out a bit, add LT, then re-adjust in about 10 minutes if a weep should occur.

I am satisfied that I can rail away on the hawk and not have a catastrophe.

In the last two weeks, I have done a lot of work in labor to the bike. Almost no parts costs though--other than a $50 sprocket and $120 for CCT's.

I am going the do the Mosfet R/R next week.
Then...that's it.
Should be good to go for many miles.
7800 miles on her today.

7moore7

Yeah, finger tight was too much for me too... I did mine with the covers off so I could see what's going on.

There's a more elaborate write up somewhere on here that details adjusting the CCT properly, which involves the bike being on and warmed up. You can supposedly back the CCT off until you hear slight rattling from the chain being slack, then tighten it till that rattling goes away. Which means when it's cold, it will rattle slightly till the tolerances expand with heat. I'm to ascared to do it that way, but I have the APE recommend slack so I'm close enough.

The o-ring may or may not leak, It did slightly on the rear one on mine, loc-tite fixed that one.

Matt_Hawk

I'd like to see that write up. I agree it may be too sketchy for me.
I've got no tick -hot or cold.

These APE's have to be VERY loose for the cam to skip on the chain.
There will never be a catastrophic failure like the stock ones.
You get more power if you have enough slack. Think about how a too tight chain restricts movement by putting too much side load on the bearings.

Heck, I think with the perfect adjustment you might pick up some power over the stock ones. Has anyone verified this?

wyldryce