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Old 06-30-2012, 03:37 PM   #1
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98 honda vtr 1000 wont start

hi im new to the site i have a 98 honda vtr 1000 superhawk it was stored for a 1yr. now ready to use. it will turn over but will not start, i replaced spark plugs, got new battery, took out carbs inspected & cleaned-also float is working ok, cleared old fuel out of lines, flushed tank put new fuel, after trying to start i slightly unscrewed both carb drain screws & gas is getting to carbs from tank, no gas leaks. after all this it will not start. please help
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Old 06-30-2012, 03:44 PM   #2
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check the fuses,just to be on safe side.
when you put in spark plugs,did you unscrew the tip,sometimes people dont remember to do that and could be losing contact.
make sure coils are pluged in to the loom.
make sure battery has good connection,and that it has a full charge.all it needs to do is drop a little,and wham,wont start.
make sure petcock vacuum hose is in correct spot,not the bottom of it,but on the back of the petcock.
make sure fuel is turned all the way in the on position.
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Old 06-30-2012, 07:02 PM   #3
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Make sure the kill switch is in the "run" position....
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Old 06-30-2012, 07:24 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8541Hawk View Post
Make sure the kill switch is in the "run" position....
lmao,i forgot the obvious,i did that once or twice
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Old 06-30-2012, 08:05 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saige View Post
lmao,i forgot the obvious,i did that once or twice
Haha yeah first reaction is wiseass until I realize how many times I've done that
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Old 06-30-2012, 09:25 PM   #6
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Yeah I think we have all done it once or twice.....
For me it is usually when I am trying to be quiet and we all know how loud the bang is when you remember and get it fire with all that fuel in the exhaust....
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Old 06-30-2012, 10:01 PM   #7
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Does it sputter at all? When the carbs were out of sync on one of my hawks it was near impossible to start coming out of storage. I drained 2 batteries trying. Finally got it and did a carb sync. I think it may have been easier to start if i used starting fluid. So the question is , is there a place to spray starting fluid with the bike still assembled? Also, may as well check for spark with a tester first.
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Old 06-30-2012, 10:20 PM   #8
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Have you checked for spark? As a rule if you have fuel and spark you will run. Many stored bikes benefit from starting fluid. If it starts with that you have spark & lack fuel delivery. You may have to open the airbox to get a good shot to the intake to spray it in.
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Old 07-01-2012, 09:26 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokinjoe73 View Post
........... If it starts with that you have spark & lack fuel delivery. You may have to open the airbox to get a good shot to the intake to spray it in.
Be sure and keep your face away from the delivery point if you use this method because if you do have spark the chances of a fireball coming back up the chute are good.
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Old 07-01-2012, 11:56 AM   #10
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Fireball? Dont let that scare you. You can drive a car by spraying the aerosol into the motor. (the spray guy sits on the hood)
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Old 07-07-2012, 08:02 AM   #11
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thanks alot for all the ideas. i checked fuses are good. have spark on plugs. battery good. got the bike started with starter fluid. but it wont stay on unless i keep revving the engine. had to adjust, idle adjuster all the way up it stays on at 2500 rpm. once it warms up & stays on, i try to adjust back down to 1500rpm but then it stalls. i thought (idle fuel?air mixture adjustment?) i more of a car guy & a noobee with bikes.
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Old 07-07-2012, 08:06 AM   #12
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PVLIR.

Search for it.
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Old 07-07-2012, 08:33 AM   #13
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So now you need to search your butt off looing for PLVIR which is the small hose that goes from carb to tank. It creates a vacuum without which the fuel wont flow. Cranking on your idle adjust is no way to do it.
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Old 07-07-2012, 10:36 AM   #14
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PVLIR i copy pasted to search bar looked through all the thread results & i cannot find, is this a title? not sure what im doing wrong. as for vacuum line it runs into the engine intake, not connected to carb what can i do to check vacuum line?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg fuel line.jpg (40.9 KB, 29 views)
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Old 07-07-2012, 11:09 AM   #15
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found threads Primary Vacuum Line Inadvertant Relocation. lines are connected properly. reading threads but not sure what to do next as far as checking vacuum. originally when i put carbs back together & installed them. there was no gas in carb or fuel lines, then i connected the fuel tank & after i started it with starter fluid, i opened both carburetor drain screws to see if i was getting gas to carbs & i was. so i assume the gas is flowing. so what am i missing?
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Old 07-07-2012, 11:33 AM   #16
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Quote:
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Fireball? Dont let that scare you. You can drive a car by spraying the aerosol into the motor. (the spray guy sits on the hood)
... and he wears a Nomex suit.
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Old 07-07-2012, 11:44 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djlheat View Post
thanks alot for all the ideas. i checked fuses are good. have spark on plugs. battery good. got the bike started with starter fluid. but it wont stay on unless i keep revving the engine. had to adjust, idle adjuster all the way up it stays on at 2500 rpm. once it warms up & stays on, i try to adjust back down to 1500rpm but then it stalls. i thought (idle fuel?air mixture adjustment?) i more of a car guy & a noobee with bikes.
Did you remove and soak the pilot (slow) jets? If not, disassemble the carbs one at a time, then soak the pilot jet in carb spray for at least 1/2 hour. Then spray carb cleaner through the pilot jet, followed by shooting compressed air through the jet. Shoot carb spray, then compressed air, through all passageways. Remove and clean the pilot screws, then reinstall 2 1/2 turns out to start. Reassemble, then do the other carb. The carbs have different main jets and emulsion tubes, so don't tear them both down at the same time.
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Old 07-07-2012, 11:45 AM   #18
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What kind of exhaust pipes and air filter? I know when I got my Hawk the PO said it ran "wicked" cold and you had to use choke most of the time. He had put 2 Bros. and K&N air filter in but did not jet so it was running incredibly lean. Had to tape off half the air box until I got the carbs jetted. Just another thought.
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Old 07-07-2012, 11:48 AM   #19
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sorry no nomex suit. i'm just a learn as you go type. i have the honda service manual from haynes, and have done everything i could that i found in the book with no luck ??
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Old 07-07-2012, 11:51 AM   #20
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thanks vtr surfer i havent tried that yet. i will let you know how it goes thanks
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Old 07-07-2012, 12:42 PM   #21
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Quote:
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thanks vtr surfer i havent tried that yet. i will let you know how it goes thanks
If you've got stock pilot jets in there, they are tiny, #45. They clog easily with today's gas, especially if the bike has sat for a while. I had #2 cylinder die completely in the middle of a ride 2 1/2 years ago. The #2 carb pilot jet was completely clogged.
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Old 09-19-2014, 12:02 AM   #22
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Super old thread I Know. Anything ever come of this? I keep a bike in storage in cal and get to ride it for about a week once a year. It's ALWAYS hard to start. Every time I kill the batt even when it's full and charged and end up cranking her boosted from a car for about 30 min befor she decides to fire up. Does end up firing though. Jus like you said it idles very rough and needs the idle adj cranked just to keep it running. Once it's hot it does ok. cold actually Needs the throttle held open to keep from stalling out. Trying to start with the choke is a definite no go. Haven't had the carbs syncd or plugs changed I'm guessing it's a combination of fuel moisture uptake and water/ethanol separation and likely carbs/plugs. It was stored with stabilizer.... def not like starting a fuel injected bike lol.
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Old 09-19-2014, 09:08 AM   #23
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You are making it worse by cranking up the idle. That is what the choke is for. Also a bad idea using a car to jump it. You will destroy stuff if you keep doing that. Have you seen the difference in cranking amps from car to bike?

If it always happens, you should drain your tank & start with fresh gas. Use a stabilizer specificly for ethanol. I think startron or tectron makes one with enzymes. You want that one. Ok, here you go, this one
Amazon.com: Star brite Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment Formula for Small Engines: Sports & Outdoors Amazon.com: Star brite Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment Formula for Small Engines: Sports & Outdoors

You also need to own a float charger to leave the battery on. If you fully discharge it you drasticly shorten its life and strength.

Even if you stabilize the fuel, go get new gas once you get it started to dilute the junk old gas. Modern gas degrades as soon as it gets in your tank. Ethanol is hygroscopic (hydroscopic) and sucks water from the air. Water doesnt burn very well so water mixed with gas is not your friend.

No fuel treatment is going to clean your carbs if gunk, debris, laquer (forms from gas), etc is in them. At the least, learn to drain the bowls of your carbs before starting. This will at least remove some gunk.

You really need to clean your carbs by hand first as a baseline. Its not that hard. A properly clean carb should start right up even after storage.

Take a minute to put fuel filters, there are write ups on here on how.

Water will form in your tank also since it is vented to atmosphere and condensation happens in the tank. You cant change that.

Last edited by smokinjoe73; 09-19-2014 at 09:10 AM.
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Old 09-19-2014, 09:08 AM
 
 
 
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1000, 1998, 98, diagram, flush, honda, lines, mount, proton, signals, start, starter, superhawk, turn, vacuum, vtr, vtr1000, wont

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