Latest OCMD project: modded airbox lid
08-31-2014, 03:19 AM
#91
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: May 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 397
Oh the fun and games of working your way through the carb circuits.
3 to 3.5 turns is your limit on the fuel screws really. You should be thinking of going with a larger pilot with that many turns out. Bigger than 50
surly not... What size mains are you running. Start there and work your way down. Unfortunately this is the hardest to test on the street as it ideally requires full speed WOT.
You should note your throttle position with revs. This is more important!! If you haven't done so already read the factory pro instruction for tuning a CV carb. Actually I'll do better than that as their site is *****.
Here you go
www.vtr1000.org • View topic - Carb Tuning guide (setting up a Dynojet or Factory Pro kit)
I wish we had clip on airbox lids. All those screws, that's what takes time.
(:-})
3 to 3.5 turns is your limit on the fuel screws really. You should be thinking of going with a larger pilot with that many turns out. Bigger than 50
surly not... What size mains are you running. Start there and work your way down. Unfortunately this is the hardest to test on the street as it ideally requires full speed WOT.You should note your throttle position with revs. This is more important!! If you haven't done so already read the factory pro instruction for tuning a CV carb. Actually I'll do better than that as their site is *****.
Here you go
www.vtr1000.org • View topic - Carb Tuning guide (setting up a Dynojet or Factory Pro kit)
I wish we had clip on airbox lids. All those screws, that's what takes time.
(:-})
08-31-2014, 08:32 AM
#93
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 2,312
Cybercarl, thanks for the link. I have had a read through the whole thing.
Here is my current carb setup:
-Stock slides with one hole plugged on each slide. Each slide has the short DJ spring.
-Mains:
180F (DJ)
185R (DJ)
-Factory Pro needles set at position #4
-Fuel screws
3.5 Front
3.75 Rear
The sputtering would only happen while at 100% throttle.
Reading through that link, it looks like I may need to raise my needles one more position. I hope this doesn't affect my steady cruising.
I ordered Keihin 52 & 55 pilots just in case I needed them.
Here is my current carb setup:
-Stock slides with one hole plugged on each slide. Each slide has the short DJ spring.
-Mains:
180F (DJ)
185R (DJ)
-Factory Pro needles set at position #4
-Fuel screws
3.5 Front
3.75 Rear
The sputtering would only happen while at 100% throttle.
Reading through that link, it looks like I may need to raise my needles one more position. I hope this doesn't affect my steady cruising.
I ordered Keihin 52 & 55 pilots just in case I needed them.
Last edited by CruxGNZ; 08-31-2014 at 08:35 AM.
08-31-2014, 09:23 AM
#94
Senior Member
MotoGP
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Montreal
Posts: 5,631
I may be wrong but if your sputtering is happening under full throttle above 6500 rpm, I would suspect your mains are the problem, not the needles. The latter seem fine given that your lower rpm and cruising speed are fine.... I make no claims of being infallible, however....... As Carl pointed out, your fuel screws being open so much indicates that you need larger pilots. This, along with larger mains, will both enrich the middle rpm area (the pilots for the lower end and the mains for the upper end... if you follow me.....)
anyhow, pain in the butt to get right, but oh so worth it once it's done
anyhow, pain in the butt to get right, but oh so worth it once it's done
Last edited by mikstr; 08-31-2014 at 09:38 AM.
08-31-2014, 10:32 AM
#95
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 2,312
I may be wrong but if your sputtering is happening under full throttle above 6500 rpm, I would suspect your mains are the problem, not the needles. The latter seem fine given that your lower rpm and cruising speed are fine.... I make no claims of being infallible, however....... As Carl pointed out, your fuel screws being open so much indicates that you need larger pilots. This, along with larger mains, will both enrich the middle rpm area (the pilots for the lower end and the mains for the upper end... if you follow me.....)
anyhow, pain in the butt to get right, but oh so worth it once it's done
anyhow, pain in the butt to get right, but oh so worth it once it's done
I was going to just raise the needles today (it only takes a little over a half hour anyways) and keep raising the needles if need be, but after perusing that link again that Carl provided, I do believe that I need larger pilots (going to try the 52's when they arrive), AND bigger mains.
So, should I install (DJ) 190F & 195R mains and tune from there? It takes me longer to put jets in than it does to adjust the needles, because I need to remove the carbs, so that sucks. I'm starting to feel your pain Micky!
EDIT: Another question, once the larger mains are installed, do I leave the fuel screws set where they are, or do I back them off some?
Last edited by CruxGNZ; 08-31-2014 at 10:37 AM. Reason: Question
08-31-2014, 10:39 AM
#96
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MotoGP
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Montreal
Posts: 5,631
well, if you have the bigger mains......
If it's running ok in the lower rpm register right now, you are likely close on the pilots (you may, in fact, be spot on, but going to larger size will put you in the middle of the adjustment range for the fuel screws, so give you more latitude for temp and/or altitude changes). I am quite confident that putting in the larger mains would fix your high rpm issues and have you with a permagrin..... only one way to know, however..... he he
to answer your question: leave the fuel screws as they are, that way you can isolate and evaluate the effect of the mains only.....
If it's running ok in the lower rpm register right now, you are likely close on the pilots (you may, in fact, be spot on, but going to larger size will put you in the middle of the adjustment range for the fuel screws, so give you more latitude for temp and/or altitude changes). I am quite confident that putting in the larger mains would fix your high rpm issues and have you with a permagrin..... only one way to know, however..... he he
to answer your question: leave the fuel screws as they are, that way you can isolate and evaluate the effect of the mains only.....
Last edited by mikstr; 08-31-2014 at 10:45 AM.
08-31-2014, 11:53 AM
#99
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Auckland, new Zealand
Posts: 932
I would do a power run plug chop. Sputtering sounds like its rich to me. Surging is lean. A chop will confirm either way.
But it sure sounds like your lean on mains. If you are then once you have bigger ones on then fuel screw will come in.
But it sure sounds like your lean on mains. If you are then once you have bigger ones on then fuel screw will come in.
08-31-2014, 02:21 PM
#100
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: May 2012
Location: UK
Posts: 397
It can catch one out like that sometimes. One thinks their rich but are in fact lean. Try one size up or down without changing anything else, if it's worse then go the opposite way.... Sometimes jetting goes against all logic. More airflow can also increase the draw on fuel through the jets, so you may think more air =more fuel required but it don't always work out like that.
Bit of a mish mash though....DJ mains, FP needles, DJ springs. IMO I don't think DJ short springs will help. Not many have had any luck with them on these bikes. Actually I can't think of anyone that uses them. You never know, you might get them to work for you, who knows. Your setup isn't exactly standard.
Unfortunately when one changes one circuit it has a knock on effect on another as they cross paths. Ie bigger mains could mean leaning off the needle and then because the needle has been leaned off this has an effect on the pilot circuit which could mean going richer on the pilot.
Only change one thing at a time though or you will get lost as to where things are at. The only time I ever change more than one thing is if something is so out of whack that the bike is unrideable. Yeh I have changed one item before and it's had an effect on another so where the bike goes spitting, coughing and sputtering down the road. Get few 100 yards down the road then strip the carbs apart again just to move a clip position. LOL
Don't get caught up with adjusting the fuel screw for top end changes. The pilot circuit has very little effect up there. Like I said earlier start with the mains , then onto slide/needle, then pilot. You'll be a master at removing carbs, making changes and putting them back on the bike in no time. It does get boring after you have done it a dozen times or so.
I hope you don't remove the choke cable completely and risk breaking the plastic nuts at the carb end to remove the carbs. Just undo the cable at the **** end LOL slide it out the bracket and you can poke the cable through! It's a tight squeeze where it runs under the coolant hose but it's possible, and once you get the hang of it, it's so much quicker and saves risking them nuts.
Keep up the good work. I'm looking forward to seeing how this ends up compared to Mik's. Is you engine all standard?
(:-})
Bit of a mish mash though....DJ mains, FP needles, DJ springs. IMO I don't think DJ short springs will help. Not many have had any luck with them on these bikes. Actually I can't think of anyone that uses them. You never know, you might get them to work for you, who knows. Your setup isn't exactly standard.
Unfortunately when one changes one circuit it has a knock on effect on another as they cross paths. Ie bigger mains could mean leaning off the needle and then because the needle has been leaned off this has an effect on the pilot circuit which could mean going richer on the pilot.
Only change one thing at a time though or you will get lost as to where things are at. The only time I ever change more than one thing is if something is so out of whack that the bike is unrideable. Yeh I have changed one item before and it's had an effect on another so where the bike goes spitting, coughing and sputtering down the road. Get few 100 yards down the road then strip the carbs apart again just to move a clip position. LOL
Don't get caught up with adjusting the fuel screw for top end changes. The pilot circuit has very little effect up there. Like I said earlier start with the mains , then onto slide/needle, then pilot. You'll be a master at removing carbs, making changes and putting them back on the bike in no time. It does get boring after you have done it a dozen times or so.
I hope you don't remove the choke cable completely and risk breaking the plastic nuts at the carb end to remove the carbs. Just undo the cable at the **** end LOL slide it out the bracket and you can poke the cable through! It's a tight squeeze where it runs under the coolant hose but it's possible, and once you get the hang of it, it's so much quicker and saves risking them nuts.
Keep up the good work. I'm looking forward to seeing how this ends up compared to Mik's. Is you engine all standard?
(:-})
Last edited by cybercarl; 08-31-2014 at 02:23 PM.
08-31-2014, 03:06 PM
#101
Senior Member
MotoGP
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Montreal
Posts: 5,631
FWIW, I am using the DJ springs with success. as for changing the jets, I never remove the carbs (hate struggling with the choke cable) so I move them around and "get 'er done" while they are still hooked up (ie. TPS, throttle cables and choke cables still hooked up)....
08-31-2014, 06:18 PM
#102
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 2,312
Thanks for the advice guys. 
About the Dyno Jet short springs, Micky has had great luck with his DJ springs, so that's the reason I swapped them in.
Concerning me doing more than one modification at a time, BELIEVE me, I know not to do more than one modification at a time. Learned that very early on as a kid. So, no worries there. I mentioned earlier, throwing the 52 pilots in my carbs when they arrive, but this would've only been after trying out the larger mains.
I was going to swap out the Factory Pro needles for Dyno Jet needles, but a recent member here mentioned that the F.P. needles are a fantastic design compared to the DJ needles. So, they're staying and I'm making them work.
When I remove the carbs completely, I remove the choke cable off the frame (at the ****). It's super easy to do when you don't have a chunky coolant bottle in the way.
And yes, my engine is standard, save for a lightened flywheel (cut down to 5 lbs. 5.5 oz.). I'm very curious how this turns out myself!
EDIT: I have forgot to mention this each time I have posted. On deceleration, I have MAJOR popping. With stock exhaust and stock airbox & filter, the exhaust note was somewhat rythmic on decel. But now, ever since the Filter In Lid mod, I get super loud popping and a lot of it out the exhaust. I understand this is a lean condition, or a PAIR system problem, or an exhaust leak. I'm 100% certain it's the former, because I have the PAIR system blocked off and the exhaust has no gaskets (Jardine RT-1 high mounts) and the exhaust clamps are all rechecked and tight.
About the Dyno Jet short springs, Micky has had great luck with his DJ springs, so that's the reason I swapped them in.
Concerning me doing more than one modification at a time, BELIEVE me, I know not to do more than one modification at a time. Learned that very early on as a kid. So, no worries there. I mentioned earlier, throwing the 52 pilots in my carbs when they arrive, but this would've only been after trying out the larger mains.
I was going to swap out the Factory Pro needles for Dyno Jet needles, but a recent member here mentioned that the F.P. needles are a fantastic design compared to the DJ needles. So, they're staying and I'm making them work.
When I remove the carbs completely, I remove the choke cable off the frame (at the ****). It's super easy to do when you don't have a chunky coolant bottle in the way.
And yes, my engine is standard, save for a lightened flywheel (cut down to 5 lbs. 5.5 oz.). I'm very curious how this turns out myself!
EDIT: I have forgot to mention this each time I have posted. On deceleration, I have MAJOR popping. With stock exhaust and stock airbox & filter, the exhaust note was somewhat rythmic on decel. But now, ever since the Filter In Lid mod, I get super loud popping and a lot of it out the exhaust. I understand this is a lean condition, or a PAIR system problem, or an exhaust leak. I'm 100% certain it's the former, because I have the PAIR system blocked off and the exhaust has no gaskets (Jardine RT-1 high mounts) and the exhaust clamps are all rechecked and tight.
Last edited by CruxGNZ; 08-31-2014 at 06:48 PM. Reason: Popping
08-31-2014, 10:51 PM
#103
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Auckland, new Zealand
Posts: 932
This is what I do.
08-31-2014, 10:52 PM
#104
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Auckland, new Zealand
Posts: 932
It can catch one out like that sometimes. One thinks their rich but are in fact lean. Try one size up or down without changing anything else, if it's worse then go the opposite way.... Sometimes jetting goes against all logic. More airflow can also increase the draw on fuel through the jets, so you may think more air =more fuel required but it don't always work out like that.
Bit of a mish mash though....DJ mains, FP needles, DJ springs. IMO I don't think DJ short springs will help. Not many have had any luck with them on these bikes. Actually I can't think of anyone that uses them. You never know, you might get them to work for you, who knows. Your setup isn't exactly standard.
Unfortunately when one changes one circuit it has a knock on effect on another as they cross paths. Ie bigger mains could mean leaning off the needle and then because the needle has been leaned off this has an effect on the pilot circuit which could mean going richer on the pilot.
Only change one thing at a time though or you will get lost as to where things are at. The only time I ever change more than one thing is if something is so out of whack that the bike is unrideable. Yeh I have changed one item before and it's had an effect on another so where the bike goes spitting, coughing and sputtering down the road. Get few 100 yards down the road then strip the carbs apart again just to move a clip position. LOL
Don't get caught up with adjusting the fuel screw for top end changes. The pilot circuit has very little effect up there. Like I said earlier start with the mains , then onto slide/needle, then pilot. You'll be a master at removing carbs, making changes and putting them back on the bike in no time. It does get boring after you have done it a dozen times or so.
I hope you don't remove the choke cable completely and risk breaking the plastic nuts at the carb end to remove the carbs. Just undo the cable at the **** end LOL slide it out the bracket and you can poke the cable through! It's a tight squeeze where it runs under the coolant hose but it's possible, and once you get the hang of it, it's so much quicker and saves risking them nuts.
Keep up the good work. I'm looking forward to seeing how this ends up compared to Mik's. Is you engine all standard?
(:-})
Bit of a mish mash though....DJ mains, FP needles, DJ springs. IMO I don't think DJ short springs will help. Not many have had any luck with them on these bikes. Actually I can't think of anyone that uses them. You never know, you might get them to work for you, who knows. Your setup isn't exactly standard.
Unfortunately when one changes one circuit it has a knock on effect on another as they cross paths. Ie bigger mains could mean leaning off the needle and then because the needle has been leaned off this has an effect on the pilot circuit which could mean going richer on the pilot.
Only change one thing at a time though or you will get lost as to where things are at. The only time I ever change more than one thing is if something is so out of whack that the bike is unrideable. Yeh I have changed one item before and it's had an effect on another so where the bike goes spitting, coughing and sputtering down the road. Get few 100 yards down the road then strip the carbs apart again just to move a clip position. LOL
Don't get caught up with adjusting the fuel screw for top end changes. The pilot circuit has very little effect up there. Like I said earlier start with the mains , then onto slide/needle, then pilot. You'll be a master at removing carbs, making changes and putting them back on the bike in no time. It does get boring after you have done it a dozen times or so.
I hope you don't remove the choke cable completely and risk breaking the plastic nuts at the carb end to remove the carbs. Just undo the cable at the **** end LOL slide it out the bracket and you can poke the cable through! It's a tight squeeze where it runs under the coolant hose but it's possible, and once you get the hang of it, it's so much quicker and saves risking them nuts.
Keep up the good work. I'm looking forward to seeing how this ends up compared to Mik's. Is you engine all standard?
(:-})
09-04-2014, 03:31 PM
#105
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 218
Air flow in pipe, diameter change, affect performance?
Came across this randomly, might be of use in itself or signing up on there and picking their brain....
Came across this randomly, might be of use in itself or signing up on there and picking their brain....
09-05-2014, 06:14 PM
#107
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 2,312
No. Not yet. Been super busy with work and haven't had any time for the Superhawk. I haven't even had any time to check the mail...SWEET, I just flew outside and found my 52 & 55 pilots from JetsRus have arrived!
I have a little time Saturday to putz with the bike. I really want to find out what makes the bike better, when I install the new pilots or when I install the bigger jets.
I have a little time Saturday to putz with the bike. I really want to find out what makes the bike better, when I install the new pilots or when I install the bigger jets.
09-06-2014, 07:44 PM
#108
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 2,312
Made a slight mistake. Turns out I had Fatory pro needles and Factory pro jets (180F & 182R).
I removed the Factory Pro jets and installed the Dyno Jet jets.
I now have Factory Pro Needles set at #4
(DJ) Mains - 190F & 195R
Pilots - 50
Fuel Screws (turns out) - 2.75F & 3R
It just keeps getting better! The bottom end is freakin AMAZING! Just gobs of torque. But, I am still having issues on the top end. Above 6,500RPM's the engine is still sputtering, however not as much as before. So, I believe that I am heading in the right direction.
I will raise the needles another position and see how she feels. As of now, I don't think that I will need the larger pilots (52 & 55) that I just purchased. She seems fantastic on the bottom end now.
I can only raise the needles so far untill I need larger mains. I will let you guys know what happens when I raise the needles. Hopefully it just keeps getting better, like it has been.
I removed the Factory Pro jets and installed the Dyno Jet jets.
I now have Factory Pro Needles set at #4
(DJ) Mains - 190F & 195R
Pilots - 50
Fuel Screws (turns out) - 2.75F & 3R
It just keeps getting better! The bottom end is freakin AMAZING! Just gobs of torque. But, I am still having issues on the top end. Above 6,500RPM's the engine is still sputtering, however not as much as before. So, I believe that I am heading in the right direction.
I will raise the needles another position and see how she feels. As of now, I don't think that I will need the larger pilots (52 & 55) that I just purchased. She seems fantastic on the bottom end now.
I can only raise the needles so far untill I need larger mains. I will let you guys know what happens when I raise the needles. Hopefully it just keeps getting better, like it has been.
09-07-2014, 09:13 AM
#110
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 2,312
With the previous setup, (FP) mains 180F & 182R, I had the fuel screws (# of turns out) 3.5F & 3.75R.
Now, with the current setup, which is, (DJ) mains 190F & 195R, I had to back the fuel screws off some. They are now (# of turns out) 2.75F & 3R.
Nice crisp throttle and instant response on the low end.
I find myself twisting the throttle open more and more around town (below 6,500RPm's). It's so much more fun now. And then, there is the SOUND! Man, I love the sound coming from the airbox. Makes me wonder what different cams (with more valve overlap) would sound like. How much is it for a Webcam regrind again? Haha
I now need to tune the top end (6,500RPM's+) at 100% throttle. With the current setup, I made a mistake when I changed to the larger mains. I forgot to lower the needles. I had kept them at the #4 position from the previous setup. However, I still feel that the engine is lean, with the sputtering at 100% throttle above 6,500RPM's. I'm going to raise the (FP) needles one position to #5.
09-13-2014, 05:31 PM
#111
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 2,312
Ordered new jets and had the chance to install them today. Been ordering them from JetsRus, and these seem to be the biggest I can get. Keinhin main jets 198F & 200R.
I just got back from a ride and I honestly have no way other to express this other than HOLY S**T!
The 6,500RPM's + issue has been fixed! Damn...it's a freakin' monster! The accelration is incredible! To be honest, the first time I floored it, the bike scared the crap out of me. It was so much...BETTER. So much more bike.
My clutch has been going. Before, when I would wind 'er out, it would take a second, maybe a second and a half for the clutch to fully grab at redline while shifting. Now, when I nail on it, I can HEAR the clutch slipping (more torque....or the clutch is getting worse...).
I have a new EBC kevlar clutch waiting to be installed along with the Factory Pro +4 ignition advancer. Doing that tomorrow or Monday evening (hopefully).
I just can't believe the difference in power with the BMC filter and this. It's night and day. So much more power and the instant response is fantastic. Absolutely no downside with this mod.
I also noticed that even though I have bigger than normal main jets, I am getting better fuel mileage. I have to recalibrate my Veypor gauge.
If anyone is on the fence about this mod, DO IT. For your time involved doing the modification and then tuning, the payout is fantastic. I'm so very very happy!
I just got back from a ride and I honestly have no way other to express this other than HOLY S**T!
The 6,500RPM's + issue has been fixed! Damn...it's a freakin' monster! The accelration is incredible! To be honest, the first time I floored it, the bike scared the crap out of me. It was so much...BETTER. So much more bike.
My clutch has been going. Before, when I would wind 'er out, it would take a second, maybe a second and a half for the clutch to fully grab at redline while shifting. Now, when I nail on it, I can HEAR the clutch slipping (more torque....or the clutch is getting worse...).
I have a new EBC kevlar clutch waiting to be installed along with the Factory Pro +4 ignition advancer. Doing that tomorrow or Monday evening (hopefully).
I just can't believe the difference in power with the BMC filter and this. It's night and day. So much more power and the instant response is fantastic. Absolutely no downside with this mod.
I also noticed that even though I have bigger than normal main jets, I am getting better fuel mileage. I have to recalibrate my Veypor gauge.
If anyone is on the fence about this mod, DO IT. For your time involved doing the modification and then tuning, the payout is fantastic. I'm so very very happy!
Last edited by CruxGNZ; 09-13-2014 at 05:34 PM.
09-14-2014, 01:08 AM
#114
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Auckland, new Zealand
Posts: 932
Ordered new jets and had the chance to install them today. Been ordering them from JetsRus, and these seem to be the biggest I can get. Keinhin main jets 198F & 200R.
I just got back from a ride and I honestly have no way other to express this other than HOLY S**T!
The 6,500RPM's + issue has been fixed! Damn...it's a freakin' monster! The accelration is incredible! To be honest, the first time I floored it, the bike scared the crap out of me. It was so much...BETTER. So much more bike.
My clutch has been going. Before, when I would wind 'er out, it would take a second, maybe a second and a half for the clutch to fully grab at redline while shifting. Now, when I nail on it, I can HEAR the clutch slipping (more torque....or the clutch is getting worse...).
I have a new EBC kevlar clutch waiting to be installed along with the Factory Pro +4 ignition advancer. Doing that tomorrow or Monday evening (hopefully).
I just can't believe the difference in power with the BMC filter and this. It's night and day. So much more power and the instant response is fantastic. Absolutely no downside with this mod.
I also noticed that even though I have bigger than normal main jets, I am getting better fuel mileage. I have to recalibrate my Veypor gauge.
If anyone is on the fence about this mod, DO IT. For your time involved doing the modification and then tuning, the payout is fantastic. I'm so very very happy!
I just got back from a ride and I honestly have no way other to express this other than HOLY S**T!
The 6,500RPM's + issue has been fixed! Damn...it's a freakin' monster! The accelration is incredible! To be honest, the first time I floored it, the bike scared the crap out of me. It was so much...BETTER. So much more bike.
My clutch has been going. Before, when I would wind 'er out, it would take a second, maybe a second and a half for the clutch to fully grab at redline while shifting. Now, when I nail on it, I can HEAR the clutch slipping (more torque....or the clutch is getting worse...).
I have a new EBC kevlar clutch waiting to be installed along with the Factory Pro +4 ignition advancer. Doing that tomorrow or Monday evening (hopefully).
I just can't believe the difference in power with the BMC filter and this. It's night and day. So much more power and the instant response is fantastic. Absolutely no downside with this mod.
I also noticed that even though I have bigger than normal main jets, I am getting better fuel mileage. I have to recalibrate my Veypor gauge.
If anyone is on the fence about this mod, DO IT. For your time involved doing the modification and then tuning, the payout is fantastic. I'm so very very happy!
I will be starting on mine this week.
09-14-2014, 02:36 PM
#116
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 2,312
Took a three hour ride today. After getting the 6,500RPM+ at 100% throttle issue sorted, the bike is so much different. I just want to keep twisting my wrist. Don't get me wrong, the stock setup was great, but the F.I.L. mod after being tuned correctly is completely different. So much better!
You can twist the throttle open as fast as you can, and there is no stumble, no hesitation, just instant acceleration. I love it!
My current setup is:
Mains - (Keihin) 198F & 200R
Factory Pro Needles set at #4 (both carbs)
Pilots - (Keihin) 50
Fuel screws (turns out) 3.25F & 3.5R
Front & Rear slide has Dyno Jet springs and both only have one hole.
I am still playing with the fuel screws a bit, to try and get the low end more crisp. It's great where it is, but I think it could be better. I might give the 52 pilots a shot and see how she runs.
Thanks for the info on those jets Carl. Didn't know that. Yeah, they are very big mains, but all the smaller ones were just way to lean. I was hoping that these 198 & 200 were the ones that worked, because JetsRus didn't have anything larger. I'm glad these worked!
I just can't believe how different of a bike it is now. The larger volume post filter REALLY makes a difference. There were some people that doubted I could get 'er running correctly at all RPM's with such a huge K&N filter. In the beginning, I was one of them. But slowly, jet change after jet change, it got better and better. I wish I could let you guys take 'er for a ride and feel the difference.
Spokes, let us know your progress. It will be cool to have more than two people running this setup and be able to compare notes.
You can twist the throttle open as fast as you can, and there is no stumble, no hesitation, just instant acceleration. I love it!
My current setup is:
Mains - (Keihin) 198F & 200R
Factory Pro Needles set at #4 (both carbs)
Pilots - (Keihin) 50
Fuel screws (turns out) 3.25F & 3.5R
Front & Rear slide has Dyno Jet springs and both only have one hole.
I am still playing with the fuel screws a bit, to try and get the low end more crisp. It's great where it is, but I think it could be better. I might give the 52 pilots a shot and see how she runs.
Thanks for the info on those jets Carl. Didn't know that. Yeah, they are very big mains, but all the smaller ones were just way to lean. I was hoping that these 198 & 200 were the ones that worked, because JetsRus didn't have anything larger. I'm glad these worked!
I just can't believe how different of a bike it is now. The larger volume post filter REALLY makes a difference. There were some people that doubted I could get 'er running correctly at all RPM's with such a huge K&N filter. In the beginning, I was one of them. But slowly, jet change after jet change, it got better and better. I wish I could let you guys take 'er for a ride and feel the difference.
Spokes, let us know your progress. It will be cool to have more than two people running this setup and be able to compare notes.
09-14-2014, 07:04 PM
#118
Senior Member
MotoGP
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Montreal
Posts: 5,631
Great minds think alike.... and both got great results... love those happy endings
BTW, throw your X-wing in there, it may just solve your remaining low end jetting.... double victory
BTW, throw your X-wing in there, it may just solve your remaining low end jetting.... double victory
09-14-2014, 08:27 PM
#119
über-n00b
Superstock
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: S. WI
Posts: 257
interesting stuff guys! you got me thinking.
I WANT THAT!
Basically, the FIL mod 'could' be done on any VTR?
Each one would need to be tuned for each bike.
Most folks here have stock motors and all (meaning me)
My basic question for a layman like me (no imagination to dream up this stuff):
What would be the easiest way to get to a FIL mod done (style).
Could a shop with a good carb guy and a dyno finish it off?
So far, I think my bike runs well...would this give 'me' more smiles??
I WANT THAT!
Basically, the FIL mod 'could' be done on any VTR?
Each one would need to be tuned for each bike.
Most folks here have stock motors and all (meaning me)
My basic question for a layman like me (no imagination to dream up this stuff):
What would be the easiest way to get to a FIL mod done (style).
Could a shop with a good carb guy and a dyno finish it off?
So far, I think my bike runs well...would this give 'me' more smiles??
Last edited by Spoot; 09-14-2014 at 08:29 PM.
09-15-2014, 06:07 AM
#120
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 2,312
Basically, the FIL mod 'could' be done on any VTR?
Each one would need to be tuned for each bike.
Each one would need to be tuned for each bike.
What would be the easiest way to get to a FIL mod done (style).
Could a shop with a good carb guy and a dyno finish it off?
Could a shop with a good carb guy and a dyno finish it off?
Not sure how easy this would be to tune on a dyno. Others can chime in on that. I tuned mine on the street and got it working fantastic. Oops, that's right, you have a track bike. I guess a dyno is pretty much your only option?
So far, I think my bike runs well...would this give 'me' more smiles??
I will let you take my bike for a ride to see if this is something you want to do. Mine bike, besides ugly right now, is stock, except for a lightened flywheel and Dr. Honda velocity stacks. I am 100% certain you will want to do this. It's hard to express the difference in words. Anybody have a GoPro I can borrow?
