Jet Kit Installation
03-22-2006, 09:42 AM
#1
Senior Member
Superstock
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: 58 miles from Deals Gap
Posts: 442
Jet Kit Installation
How hard is it? I have a factory jet kit sitting in the garage and I would like to install it but have never done this type of work before. Does anyone have a good step by step on how to properly do it?
03-22-2006, 10:51 AM
#3
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 547
Wow you are lucky I just rejetted my bike yesterday, all this knowledge is fresh.
How to Rejet your carbs:
1: Remove the seat
2: Remove the tank bolts (front and rear)
3: Turn off the petcock
4: Disconnect all fuel lines, overflow lines, vacuum line and the electrical connector at the rear of the tank
5: Remove the tank
6: Unscrew the airbox lid
7: Remove the velocity stacks
8: Unscrew the bottom of the airbox (8 screws)
9: Disconnect the front and back crankcase hoses from the bottom of the airbox
10: Remove the PAIR hose from the bottom of the airbox
11: Remove the airbox
12: Loosen the carb boots and remove the carbs partially
13: Remove the choke cables
14: Remove the throttle cables
15: Remove the coolant lines
16: Remove the carbs
17: Remove the coolant hose that runs between the two openings on the bottom of the carbs
Once carbs are off, do the following on a workbench, OUTSIDE, with places for small parts:
1: Drain the bowls using a flathead screwdriver (don't forget to close them back!)
2: Remove the bowls (3 screws)
3: Replace the main jet (only remove the jet with the flathead screw slot) for each cylinder. Factory will tell you which jet goes in which cylinder.
4: Replace the bowls
5: Remove the round black vacuum covers from either end of the carbs
6: Pull out the neoprene gaskets and each slide
7: Remove the interior plastic piece from each slide (the easy way to do this is use one of the vacuum cover screws and screw it partway into the screwhole and pull GENTLY with some pliers)
8: Remove the stock needles, keep the washers
9: Replace the needles with the factory needles after you have put the circlips and washers on the notches where the instructions tell you
10: Replace the plastic piece
11: Gently put the slides back into place
12: Put the neoprene vacuum gaskets back into place
13: Change springs for the factory ones
14: Replace black vacuum covers
Piece of cake. 1 hour tops.
To install, just follow the directions in reverse order.
Points of note:
i) Depending on your particular setup, Factory MAY suggest that you use their drill bit and drill a small hole into part of your slide to make the slides work differently. They give you a guide and show you exactly what to drill and where, so that's pretty straightforward.
ii) Be careful with those neoprene gaskets, you are working with needles and screwdrivers and all kinds of other non-friendly parts. Any perforation into those gaskets will render them useless, and those are not fun parts to replace.
iii) If this sounds too complicated to do yourself, it probably is, and you should let a professional mechanic do this for you.
How to Rejet your carbs:
1: Remove the seat
2: Remove the tank bolts (front and rear)
3: Turn off the petcock
4: Disconnect all fuel lines, overflow lines, vacuum line and the electrical connector at the rear of the tank
5: Remove the tank
6: Unscrew the airbox lid
7: Remove the velocity stacks
8: Unscrew the bottom of the airbox (8 screws)
9: Disconnect the front and back crankcase hoses from the bottom of the airbox
10: Remove the PAIR hose from the bottom of the airbox
11: Remove the airbox
12: Loosen the carb boots and remove the carbs partially
13: Remove the choke cables
14: Remove the throttle cables
15: Remove the coolant lines
16: Remove the carbs
17: Remove the coolant hose that runs between the two openings on the bottom of the carbs
Once carbs are off, do the following on a workbench, OUTSIDE, with places for small parts:
1: Drain the bowls using a flathead screwdriver (don't forget to close them back!)
2: Remove the bowls (3 screws)
3: Replace the main jet (only remove the jet with the flathead screw slot) for each cylinder. Factory will tell you which jet goes in which cylinder.
4: Replace the bowls
5: Remove the round black vacuum covers from either end of the carbs
6: Pull out the neoprene gaskets and each slide
7: Remove the interior plastic piece from each slide (the easy way to do this is use one of the vacuum cover screws and screw it partway into the screwhole and pull GENTLY with some pliers)
8: Remove the stock needles, keep the washers
9: Replace the needles with the factory needles after you have put the circlips and washers on the notches where the instructions tell you
10: Replace the plastic piece
11: Gently put the slides back into place
12: Put the neoprene vacuum gaskets back into place
13: Change springs for the factory ones
14: Replace black vacuum covers
Piece of cake. 1 hour tops.
To install, just follow the directions in reverse order.
Points of note:
i) Depending on your particular setup, Factory MAY suggest that you use their drill bit and drill a small hole into part of your slide to make the slides work differently. They give you a guide and show you exactly what to drill and where, so that's pretty straightforward.
ii) Be careful with those neoprene gaskets, you are working with needles and screwdrivers and all kinds of other non-friendly parts. Any perforation into those gaskets will render them useless, and those are not fun parts to replace.
iii) If this sounds too complicated to do yourself, it probably is, and you should let a professional mechanic do this for you.
that's a lot of steps. I'll give a shot
03-22-2006, 04:10 PM
#6
Member
Squid
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Burton, Michigan
Posts: 62
03-22-2006, 11:25 PM
#8
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 547
May require drilling. Depends on what setup you are running. Mono, my initial reaction was holy crap, there's no more stumble, it runs clean through the rev range, even from idle. I didn't change the airfilter initially, and only recently have I switched to a K&N. Here's the catch: The genius that shipped me my filter didn't send the blockoff pieces for the underside of the airbox. Rather than go the easy way and buy them from K&N, I just jetted a bit richer on the mains and slows. I'm running 195/190 mains and #50 idle jets. Its been abnormally cold here in Dallas, so I haven't been able to ride it very far for a test, but the new jetting seems to make the bike ride very differently. Can't say yet whether it's better or worse, just noticeably different.
03-23-2006, 01:32 PM
#11
Member
Squid
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Woonona
Posts: 84
Re: Jet Kit Installation
Doh...! I've already phoned the guy dynoing my bike & rejetting & quoted the 195/190 formula, telling him the guys in the States (that know what their talking about :wink: ) reckon this is the go!
Ohwell, if its too rich, he'll pick it up on the dyno & adjust it accordingly. I'll let you know what the outcome is in a few days. He's putting either a K&N or a BMC air filter in too!
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