Danmoto Rearset brake return spring
02-05-2014, 07:37 PM
#1
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Danmoto Rearset brake return spring
Thought I would start another thread on this. Finally got to try and take a pic of how I put on a return spring that seems to work pretty well. No chance to ride bike yet, but performs well on stand. Sorry about the poor pic qaulity. 
Last edited by Appletonhawk; 02-06-2014 at 03:09 PM.
02-07-2014, 08:19 AM
#7
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i basically did a similar thing but i just mounted the stock brake light spring which is hat you used, rather than the crappy danmoto spring. so mine is just hooked up from the pedal to the brake light switch. the only thing you have to do is back the brake switch out as far as possible
02-07-2014, 03:50 PM
#9
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I tried attaching it to the brake light switch, but it didn't have the return tension I was looking for and it also caused my brake light to stay on all the time. I disconnected my rear brake light switch anyway. I always always use front brake which activates the light so figured why do I need two switchs? My switch was sticking. I may reinstall once I get a new one.
02-08-2014, 11:27 AM
#12
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here ya go;
Woodcraft Brake Pedal Return Spring from SportbikeTrackGear.com
I use the Graves one, looks the same. I get then from Trackstar1.com
db
Woodcraft Brake Pedal Return Spring from SportbikeTrackGear.com
I use the Graves one, looks the same. I get then from Trackstar1.com
db
02-25-2014, 10:54 PM
#13
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Squid
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 40
I received my DM rearsets and it took some adjusting and fiddling to get it all right.
I used the DM spring and had to make a couple of adjustments.
I've found with the DM Rear Sets, you really need to read the instructions and make adjustments and really ride the bike thoroughly. It was frustrating when I first installed them but after about 2-3 changes, I figured out all the short cuts to get these things set up right.
1. On the rear brake mastercyclinder, the one bolt and nylock nut have to be installed so that the NYLOCK nut does NOT hit the swingarm (head of bolt near swing arm) and apply your rear brake as you hit multiple bumps when you are riding which in turn will make you think your engine is stalling while on the throttle
2. On that same Nylock nut, you don't want to apply the GORRILLA GRIP to it and the pivot point on that master cyclinder attachment point WILL BIND and the result would be the brake light staying on even when your foot is off the rear brake lever. The DM spring works. You just have to apply that NYLOCK nut PERFECTLY and to also adjust the nut on the brake switch. It will work. Simply turn the ignition key on (all lights are ON) and make adjustments to both as stated earlier and you will see the brake light activate on and off smoothly as though the stock rearset is still on the bike.
3. The instruction tell you that for best SHIFTING FEEL (actuation), you have to mount the shifting thingy (actuator?) straight DOWN. They are right. The bike shifts so smoothly now. My OEM rear set was not aligned properly when I bought the bike (previous owner maybe?)
4. SERIOUSLY APPLY BLUE LOCKTITE TO ALL BOLTS......lol. Seriously.
Oh yeah, it sure was fun removing that swing arm bolt to put the right rear set on HUH?..............LOL!
I used the DM spring and had to make a couple of adjustments.
I've found with the DM Rear Sets, you really need to read the instructions and make adjustments and really ride the bike thoroughly. It was frustrating when I first installed them but after about 2-3 changes, I figured out all the short cuts to get these things set up right.
1. On the rear brake mastercyclinder, the one bolt and nylock nut have to be installed so that the NYLOCK nut does NOT hit the swingarm (head of bolt near swing arm) and apply your rear brake as you hit multiple bumps when you are riding which in turn will make you think your engine is stalling while on the throttle
2. On that same Nylock nut, you don't want to apply the GORRILLA GRIP to it and the pivot point on that master cyclinder attachment point WILL BIND and the result would be the brake light staying on even when your foot is off the rear brake lever. The DM spring works. You just have to apply that NYLOCK nut PERFECTLY and to also adjust the nut on the brake switch. It will work. Simply turn the ignition key on (all lights are ON) and make adjustments to both as stated earlier and you will see the brake light activate on and off smoothly as though the stock rearset is still on the bike.
3. The instruction tell you that for best SHIFTING FEEL (actuation), you have to mount the shifting thingy (actuator?) straight DOWN. They are right. The bike shifts so smoothly now. My OEM rear set was not aligned properly when I bought the bike (previous owner maybe?)
4. SERIOUSLY APPLY BLUE LOCKTITE TO ALL BOLTS......lol. Seriously.
Oh yeah, it sure was fun removing that swing arm bolt to put the right rear set on HUH?..............LOL!
02-26-2014, 05:23 AM
#14
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Posts: 134
I received my DM rearsets and it took some adjusting and fiddling to get it all right.
I used the DM spring and had to make a couple of adjustments.
I've found with the DM Rear Sets, you really need to read the instructions and make adjustments and really ride the bike thoroughly. It was frustrating when I first installed them but after about 2-3 changes, I figured out all the short cuts to get these things set up right.
1. On the rear brake mastercyclinder, the one bolt and nylock nut have to be installed so that the NYLOCK nut does NOT hit the swingarm (head of bolt near swing arm) and apply your rear brake as you hit multiple bumps when you are riding which in turn will make you think your engine is stalling while on the throttle
2. On that same Nylock nut, you don't want to apply the GORRILLA GRIP to it and the pivot point on that master cyclinder attachment point WILL BIND and the result would be the brake light staying on even when your foot is off the rear brake lever. The DM spring works. You just have to apply that NYLOCK nut PERFECTLY and to also adjust the nut on the brake switch. It will work. Simply turn the ignition key on (all lights are ON) and make adjustments to both as stated earlier and you will see the brake light activate on and off smoothly as though the stock rearset is still on the bike.
3. The instruction tell you that for best SHIFTING FEEL (actuation), you have to mount the shifting thingy (actuator?) straight DOWN. They are right. The bike shifts so smoothly now. My OEM rear set was not aligned properly when I bought the bike (previous owner maybe?)
4. SERIOUSLY APPLY BLUE LOCKTITE TO ALL BOLTS......lol. Seriously.
Oh yeah, it sure was fun removing that swing arm bolt to put the right rear set on HUH?..............LOL!
I used the DM spring and had to make a couple of adjustments.
I've found with the DM Rear Sets, you really need to read the instructions and make adjustments and really ride the bike thoroughly. It was frustrating when I first installed them but after about 2-3 changes, I figured out all the short cuts to get these things set up right.
1. On the rear brake mastercyclinder, the one bolt and nylock nut have to be installed so that the NYLOCK nut does NOT hit the swingarm (head of bolt near swing arm) and apply your rear brake as you hit multiple bumps when you are riding which in turn will make you think your engine is stalling while on the throttle
2. On that same Nylock nut, you don't want to apply the GORRILLA GRIP to it and the pivot point on that master cyclinder attachment point WILL BIND and the result would be the brake light staying on even when your foot is off the rear brake lever. The DM spring works. You just have to apply that NYLOCK nut PERFECTLY and to also adjust the nut on the brake switch. It will work. Simply turn the ignition key on (all lights are ON) and make adjustments to both as stated earlier and you will see the brake light activate on and off smoothly as though the stock rearset is still on the bike.
3. The instruction tell you that for best SHIFTING FEEL (actuation), you have to mount the shifting thingy (actuator?) straight DOWN. They are right. The bike shifts so smoothly now. My OEM rear set was not aligned properly when I bought the bike (previous owner maybe?)
4. SERIOUSLY APPLY BLUE LOCKTITE TO ALL BOLTS......lol. Seriously.
Oh yeah, it sure was fun removing that swing arm bolt to put the right rear set on HUH?..............LOL!
04-15-2014, 10:42 AM
#15
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Superstock
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Rome, GA
Posts: 458
here ya go;
Woodcraft Brake Pedal Return Spring from SportbikeTrackGear.com
I use the Graves one, looks the same. I get then from Trackstar1.com
db
Woodcraft Brake Pedal Return Spring from SportbikeTrackGear.com
I use the Graves one, looks the same. I get then from Trackstar1.com
db
I was going to default on the 1.75 figuring I can cut a coil if I need (I assume its a length measurement and not width
09-01-2015, 10:39 AM
#19
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Woodcraft just told me to use the 1.25" spring kit. They gave a 10% military discount, and will be shipping in a padded envelope for like $2.50... good deal!
I run my rear brake pedal really low, so I'll probably remove the nut above the clevis when I install this. I'll either replace the nut with a thin jam nut, or no nut at all...
Right now the nut is right against the rubber boot so I can get the pedal as low as possible... I'll probably post pics in a while when this is done.
James
I run my rear brake pedal really low, so I'll probably remove the nut above the clevis when I install this. I'll either replace the nut with a thin jam nut, or no nut at all...
Right now the nut is right against the rubber boot so I can get the pedal as low as possible... I'll probably post pics in a while when this is done.
James
09-05-2015, 12:57 PM
#20
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Just finished installing my 1.25" Woodcraft return spring! Also took a moment to install a new rear brake master cylinder rubber boot.
I removed the jam nut when installing the cup and spring so i could get more clearance to run the brake pedal even lower. I like running it low so I don't accidentally stab it. When I use it for trail braking it is low so i only apply a little bit of force, and now the return spring definitely improves the feel!
James
I removed the jam nut when installing the cup and spring so i could get more clearance to run the brake pedal even lower. I like running it low so I don't accidentally stab it. When I use it for trail braking it is low so i only apply a little bit of force, and now the return spring definitely improves the feel!
James
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