Adding SuperBike Bars and risers
04-15-2008, 12:12 PM
#62
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OK, I've been getting many PM's on the bar mod that other threads keep bringing up. I added several pictures on PAGE TWO of this thread that should make things more self explanatory.
Unfortunately there are no hard answers to "will it fit?" since there are sooooo many variables in both the risers' height to the handlebars' bend and rise. Basically I advise to not get greedy as even the shortest riser and flattest bar is a big step up (pun intended) from stock. REMEMBER: you will most likely need to trim the fairing uppers for this mod.
If you take your bike in for oil changes or most maintenance work, than this mod is probably not for you as it does require basic mechanical knowledge, tools, work area, and ingenuity. A helibar, convertibar, or speigler handlebar kit is probably a better (albeit more $$$) route.
HTH
Unfortunately there are no hard answers to "will it fit?" since there are sooooo many variables in both the risers' height to the handlebars' bend and rise. Basically I advise to not get greedy as even the shortest riser and flattest bar is a big step up (pun intended) from stock. REMEMBER: you will most likely need to trim the fairing uppers for this mod.
If you take your bike in for oil changes or most maintenance work, than this mod is probably not for you as it does require basic mechanical knowledge, tools, work area, and ingenuity. A helibar, convertibar, or speigler handlebar kit is probably a better (albeit more $$$) route.
HTH
04-15-2008, 12:25 PM
#63
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: MN
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now that is some team spirit. the pics and info in this thread are really helpful. and the specifics on sourcing the risers too. I'd been still considering this with the RC51 front end - - the top triple is also flat but the forks come up quite a bit and have to see if there is room. thanks to the contributors.
04-15-2008, 12:28 PM
#64
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Yes, thanks for the new pics Superbling. Very helpful. I'm done with the questions. Now I just need to do. We'll see in a few days if this mod will be something I "must" do or something I "would like" to do. Thanks again to all who pitched in.
you can't beat proper bars.
04-25-2008, 12:06 PM
#67
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Squid
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: west yorkshire,uk.
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hi rick, they are sold as bar risers to make bars higher and back towards the rider, but they bolt through top yoke, i used these because thier low & back enough so i did'nt have to cut the fairing, i got them from a company called M&P direct, try www.MandP.com you can view the catalogue online.
cheers
bob.
cheers
bob.
a couple more pics that show the clearance & the clamps better.
04-25-2008, 12:41 PM
#70
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Bob,
In the left pic above, what is the cable that apprears to be going into the throttle housing? I think I see the standard throttle cable pair routed through the frame tubes below. Doesn't look like the standard switch harness either.
In the left pic above, what is the cable that apprears to be going into the throttle housing? I think I see the standard throttle cable pair routed through the frame tubes below. Doesn't look like the standard switch harness either.
09-27-2008, 10:44 PM
#73
Shredding Asphalt
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Oceanside
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time to do this to mine mabey it wont feel so funny when I go from street to dirt. only issue is that I havent seen a good picture from the front and kinda worried about lane splitting (only in cali 
but im not to worried about it. SO as soon as I get this all together ill be selling my heli bars. unless someone has a setup they wanna trade???
but im not to worried about it. SO as soon as I get this all together ill be selling my heli bars. unless someone has a setup they wanna trade???
11-03-2008, 11:16 AM
#75
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Squid
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Jupiter, Florida
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VTRBob,
I checked the site. Which riser did you use. Did it bolt directly or did you have to drill the top clamp? Also, what bars are those you have installed?
I just checked the catalog. $94.00 US for the clamp. High but I like the clamp. $102.00 to ship to the US. I don't like it that much.
I checked the site. Which riser did you use. Did it bolt directly or did you have to drill the top clamp? Also, what bars are those you have installed?
I just checked the catalog. $94.00 US for the clamp. High but I like the clamp. $102.00 to ship to the US. I don't like it that much.
Last edited by YellowBird; 11-07-2008 at 08:21 AM.
11-03-2008, 11:17 AM
#76
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Squid
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Jupiter, Florida
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Superbling,
I like what you have done and I like what VTRBob did as well. I don't know if the parts he used will be as accessable.(Him being in the UK). Couple of questions. Did you remove the triple clamp like Doug did to drill it? Do you see any need to re-enforce it as some have mentioned?
I like what you have done and I like what VTRBob did as well. I don't know if the parts he used will be as accessable.(Him being in the UK). Couple of questions. Did you remove the triple clamp like Doug did to drill it? Do you see any need to re-enforce it as some have mentioned?
Last edited by YellowBird; 11-03-2008 at 11:21 AM.
11-20-2008, 10:55 AM
#77
aka sirch345. vtr1000.org
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I'm sure MandP would post them to you, but I would suggest you email them first.
http://www.mandp.co.uk/productinfo/5...cision-Customs
HTH,
Chris.
Last edited by ripvanwinkle; 11-20-2008 at 10:58 AM.
11-20-2008, 12:47 PM
#78
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I e-mailed M&P two weeks ago, asking about the shipping charge. They said they were revamping the international setup and should be more inline of what the fee should be. They said to wait a couple of weeks and try again. I really like the setup but the rates have to be inline with the current currency exchange. I'll try again next week.
11-21-2008, 01:22 AM
#79
aka sirch345. vtr1000.org
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I'll be surprised if M&P can't sort you out with a fee for shipping. They are one of our major companies over here and have been in business for many many years.
I appreciate what you say though about the exchange rates. You obviously have to take cost into account, the same as most of us.
Good luck with it anyway which ever way you go,
Chris.
I appreciate what you say though about the exchange rates. You obviously have to take cost into account, the same as most of us.
Good luck with it anyway which ever way you go,
Chris.
12-01-2008, 11:44 AM
#82
Out of my mind, back in 5
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I haven't done this, but other swaps... And I can tell you from experience that the stock lines are on the short side, as they are a single line splitting to two... Get an aftermarket dual line and it will work nicely...
12-02-2008, 12:48 PM
#84
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Squid
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Statesville, NC
Posts: 93
This one started as a retired racebike. Most things are still safety wired. It came with sharkskin RC51 bodywork, CBR929 front end, Fox shock, re-enforced frame, Coerce rear sets, Yoshi carbon cans with headers, Moriwaki cams (grind unknown) with Dynojet tuning. I pulled the body work, added a 07 GSXR1000 headlight, Freestyle Ingenuity bar risers, Yamaha Banshee handlebars (by Moose), mocked up a dash to hold the SPA tach and Summit speedo and CRG bar end mirrors. I've originally tried the GSXR1000 mirrors, but they were too low for any use and I didn't like the look. So I added the bar end mirrors and trimmed the fairing by 3". I like the look much better now. I have most of the parts to move the radiator to the rear, under the seat. Sometime this winter, I'll pull the motor and get it painted, silver and gold are my current ideas. Then paint the frame gloss black and the fairings and wheels flat black. The dash is just temporary, so there's machine shop work in my future. Anybody in western NC have a milling machine?
12-02-2008, 01:28 PM
#85
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did you set up your sigma like you would on a pedal bike? i have one of those sitting at home and am pondering doing the same. any tricks to it? how did you mount the magnet on the wheel? thanks!
01-15-2009, 06:55 AM
#88
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Back to the bar risers. I bought the riser refered to by VTRBOB & ripvanwinkle. It has a half round on the bottom. The photo looks like it is screwed on and easily removed but the pair I received is solid. My question is how to remove the round to make it flat. I'm pretty handy but I can't afford to screw them up. (I paid way too much for them). Should I be able to cut them using a hack saw, a sawsall with metal blade, a grinder or a combination of two methods? Would it be best to just take them to a machine shop?
01-15-2009, 09:26 AM
#89
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Squid
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Statesville, NC
Posts: 93
Sorry for the delay, it's been an interesting winter so far. The frame appears to have been braced around where the tank, seat and top cylinder meet. There are panels that have been added and welded to the inside voids. I hope to be pulling the motor in a few weeks and will snap some pictures. Yes, those are RC51 radiators. Those will be up for sale soon, if anyone is interested. Assuming the underseat radiator mounting goes as planned.
