CBR1000RR gauge conversion ??'s - SuperHawk Forum


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Old 06-20-2008, 12:28 PM   #1
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Question CBR1000RR gauge conversion ??'s

To anyone that has done this or could help, I'm having trouble getting them to work. The tachometer jumps all over the place when I start it and shows no sign of normal operation. The high beam, neutral, signal dash lights work and the speedo works. The temp gauge doesn't but, i've read I need another sensor off of a rc. I know i need a speedohealer to get the speedo accurate but thats not a problem. Everything I've read in other posts about this have not mentioned having a problem with the tach like I have except that it wasn't accurate. I assumed theirs at least moved up and down in accordance with the engine speed and not erraticlly like mine does. I traced all the wires and have them connected correctly to the best of my knowledge. Maybe I missed something. Everyone who has done a conversion like this on their superhawk using cbr 929/ 954 gauges or other, have you had a problem with tach operation/ signal?

help me out!
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Old 06-20-2008, 04:48 PM   #2
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I could be wrong, but I think the tach runs based on spark frequency. It's going to be VERY different for a 2 cyl compared to 4. I don't really know how to fix that off the top of my head. The only tach experience I have is with cars, and there has always been a way to select the number of cylinders.
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Old 06-21-2008, 02:17 AM   #3
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The tach operates with "lost spark" ie it works with 2 cylinders as well as 4 cylinders... BUT the signal level of a new model CBR is clean and level... on a VTR however it's the basic signal from the coils... My tach did jump around a bit until I added the speedohealer that filters out the signal noise and provides a clean signal...

I'm however not making any promises that this will help in your case... as mine was in no way "erratic"... it worked fairly well but would occasionaly go bonkers when the signal was screwed up and either dip or rise withour reason, then return to a true value... this disapeared completely with the speedohealer...

The tach does go full scale at power-up, and then back to zero as a "start-up test"... does that work? (engine off only power to the electronics)

Since you will need the speedohealer anyway to get it all to work, it's worth trying it... if it doesn't work, your cluster is probably bad (I'm guessing it's bought of a crashed CBR?)

I'll get out my notes and we can compare wire colors... but with all other stuff working and 2 non-connected wire's it sounds like you have done what I have done...
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Old 06-21-2008, 08:17 AM   #4
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Mine works fine but it's on a VFR.

Note: you need version 4 of the SH to get the speedo accurate.
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Old 06-23-2008, 01:59 PM   #5
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Hey, thanks for the responses. The tach on the cbr1000rr does do a full test sweep at ignition turn on (not running) and returns to zero. So, if I understand correctly, your tach did jump around some but it also did act normal like the oem guages/ tach? I am getting a speedo healer. I'm confused though on how that would help the tach signal. Does it plug inline with the speedo line?

When I first started it, the tach went full sweep and the shift light came on, then it dropped all the way back to zero then back up and down, never anything consistent. When I revved it, it went the opposite way it should! On the first go around, i did have the 2 grounds backwards for the speedo input and the ground input on the cbr gauges but, i didn't think that would hurt anything. Now, the tach does nothing with the cbr gauges and I tried hooking the oem guages back up and the tach doesn't work on them either!! So, the tach signal comes from the cdi box - did i fry that some how? The speedo and warning lights on both gauges work fine.

The cbr gauges did come from ebay and were probably from a wrecked bike so that's a possibility. But now, the oem ones don't work. I post some pics of the harness in a bit and the wiring diagrams i have.

Thanks for your help.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Tweety View Post
The tach operates with "lost spark" ie it works with 2 cylinders as well as 4 cylinders... BUT the signal level of a new model CBR is clean and level... on a VTR however it's the basic signal from the coils... My tach did jump around a bit until I added the speedohealer that filters out the signal noise and provides a clean signal...

I'm however not making any promises that this will help in your case... as mine was in no way "erratic"... it worked fairly well but would occasionaly go bonkers when the signal was screwed up and either dip or rise withour reason, then return to a true value... this disapeared completely with the speedohealer...

The tach does go full scale at power-up, and then back to zero as a "start-up test"... does that work? (engine off only power to the electronics)

Since you will need the speedohealer anyway to get it all to work, it's worth trying it... if it doesn't work, your cluster is probably bad (I'm guessing it's bought of a crashed CBR?)

I'll get out my notes and we can compare wire colors... but with all other stuff working and 2 non-connected wire's it sounds like you have done what I have done...
Attached Files
File Type: doc cbr1000rr wiring.doc (65.5 KB, 123 views)

Last edited by ff; 06-23-2008 at 02:10 PM.
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Old 06-23-2008, 07:21 PM   #6
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I think it's a matter of having the sensors in synch with the gauges. Some could be analog and be completely freaked with digital gauges.
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Old 07-08-2008, 12:24 PM   #7
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well, still working on getting the conversion done. was wondering if anyone new what kind of signal/resistance the temp sensor/ sending unit on the 01' and up superhawks with digital temp guage sends out? is the sensor different? i checked on the micro fiche and it shows two different ones for all years (sending unit and thermo unit). both have different part numbers. i'm wondering if the newer digital gauges use a different sensor and if it would work with the cbr1000rr gauges for the temp display?? anybody with a voltmeter and digital temp gauge 01' and newer superhawk wanna test output signal?

thanks
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Old 07-08-2008, 12:28 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tweety View Post
The tach operates with "lost spark" ie it works with 2 cylinders as well as 4 cylinders... BUT the signal level of a new model CBR is clean and level... on a VTR however it's the basic signal from the coils... My tach did jump around a bit until I added the speedohealer that filters out the signal noise and provides a clean signal...

I'm however not making any promises that this will help in your case... as mine was in no way "erratic"... it worked fairly well but would occasionaly go bonkers when the signal was screwed up and either dip or rise withour reason, then return to a true value... this disapeared completely with the speedohealer...

The tach does go full scale at power-up, and then back to zero as a "start-up test"... does that work? (engine off only power to the electronics)

Since you will need the speedohealer anyway to get it all to work, it's worth trying it... if it doesn't work, your cluster is probably bad (I'm guessing it's bought of a crashed CBR?)

I'll get out my notes and we can compare wire colors... but with all other stuff working and 2 non-connected wire's it sounds like you have done what I have done...


tried the speedohealer out and it didn't fix the tach. the tach still doesn't do anything however, i do have about 6~7 volts at the yellow/green tach lead with ignition switched on. ecu maybe??? i tried plugging the oem gauges in and the tach doesn't work either??
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Old 07-08-2008, 02:22 PM   #9
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I don't have experience with the RR gauge on the VTR. My 96 VFR was all analog and I had to use a different coolant sensor. This is probably going to be no help and may only serve to confuse but here's a link (page two) on how I wired mine:

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/i...st=30&start=30

Maybe it will give you some help or new avenues to persue.
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Old 07-08-2008, 03:17 PM   #10
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This is how I hooked mine up...

Nevermind the font... just look at the order of the wires... CBR in the image, my colors from the VTR to the left...

Unfortunately with an unresponsive stock gauge it's likely that you fried something when hooking it up incorrectly to start with...
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CBR1000RR gauge conversion ??'s-namnl%C3%B6s.jpg  

Last edited by Tweety; 07-08-2008 at 03:22 PM.
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Old 01-13-2017, 08:39 AM   #11
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What a joke to have BANNED out all his posts there was valuable info there. Stupid mods
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Old 01-13-2017, 11:43 AM   #12
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Everyone hurry up and read Auron's posts before it's too late.
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Old 01-13-2017, 01:36 PM   #13
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I have nothing of value to post, ff did.
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Old 01-13-2017, 07:33 PM   #14
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I have been running cbr600 gauges on mine for years. I even added a fuel float in my 98 tank to make the fuel guage work.

Also needed to swap the temp sensor from the cbr since it operates on a different resistance range.

Totally worth the swap. Tach and speedo signals hook right up (even though the vtr had analog but cbr is digital speedo).

Looks like this
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Old 01-13-2017, 08:08 PM   #15
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That's good to know I just bought a CBR1000 gauge for my 919, which is known to work with the 919 as well.

Is Tweety's wiring diagram a few post s up all the info I'll need on the CBR side?
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Old 01-13-2017, 08:16 PM   #16
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Haha, yes, since I am pretty sure its the same one he posted when I needed it as I did my swap. You can google the diagram to be sure of the year but it should be the same.

I found the best way to do it is to get the cbr plug on ebay then graft in the vtr plug so you make it plug n play. So on mine if I want, the stock vtr plug is still intact.

I think it was corsa that sells all the connectors.
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Old 01-14-2017, 10:29 AM   #17
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I'm actually doing this on a 919 but do I need the speedohealer for the 919 or CBR? They have different model #'s
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Old 01-14-2017, 05:55 PM   #18
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Out of my jurisdiction but doesn't the healer go somewhere apart from the dash? I think under the seat, so it would have to attach to the 919's harness. Are you 100% that you even need one? On my transplant I didn't. I own one but the cbr dash is spot on as checked by gps.

Go figure.
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Old 01-16-2017, 08:14 AM   #19
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Oh yeah, the other place to buy the connectors new and cheap is Molex

Connector Products and Components - Molex
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