New to Forum with a Red '98
#1
New to Forum with a Red '98
Hey there everyone I just purchased a 1998 VTR1000 and wanted to say hello. I was able to find a borderline stock (except for the suspension) example with 15,000 miles on it and jumped at the chance to buy it. I test rode an SV1000 but didn't like the one I was riding and am glad I waited for this one. I am exploring the bits and pieces that need to be replaced (rectifier/regulator, CCT etc.) and would love any tips and suggestions to keep this bike running long term. I love the looks and ride of the bike and am planning on keeping it for a very long time .
I was wondering if any of you had an opinion about swapping a stock CCT for another brand/newer automatic CCT rather than a manual one?
I am located in Chicago IL btw.
I was wondering if any of you had an opinion about swapping a stock CCT for another brand/newer automatic CCT rather than a manual one?
I am located in Chicago IL btw.
#2
If you are going to stick with autos, just do so with the OEM ones, replace every 10k miles or so ..(or some set of years) and ride on.
There is nothing worng with the OEM autos other than the spring eventually failes though many cycles or time (disuse, storage may cause rust and then early failure)
Or install a manual CCT CORRECTLY and forget about it.
There is nothing worng with the OEM autos other than the spring eventually failes though many cycles or time (disuse, storage may cause rust and then early failure)
Or install a manual CCT CORRECTLY and forget about it.
Hey there everyone I just purchased a 1998 VTR1000 and wanted to say hello. I was able to find a borderline stock (except for the suspension) example with 15,000 miles on it and jumped at the chance to buy it. I test rode an SV1000 but didn't like the one I was riding and am glad I waited for this one. I am exploring the bits and pieces that need to be replaced (rectifier/regulator, CCT etc.) and would love any tips and suggestions to keep this bike running long term. I love the looks and ride of the bike and am planning on keeping it for a very long time .
I was wondering if any of you had an opinion about swapping a stock CCT for another brand/newer automatic CCT rather than a manual one?
I am located in Chicago IL btw.
I was wondering if any of you had an opinion about swapping a stock CCT for another brand/newer automatic CCT rather than a manual one?
I am located in Chicago IL btw.
#3
Welcome to the forum! Great bunch of (pick your favorite term of endearment or expletive here) on this site.
Oh... and I second what Erik said above plus, from my experience, change the reg/rec sooner than later.
Oh... and I second what Erik said above plus, from my experience, change the reg/rec sooner than later.
#5
As to the CCT's, take a look at www.vtr1000.org ? Portal
and search for "stopper mod". It is a mod that allows automatic tensioning and prevents catastrophic failure if the spring breaks.
and search for "stopper mod". It is a mod that allows automatic tensioning and prevents catastrophic failure if the spring breaks.
#7
Thanks so much for the advice guys. I'm trying to decide if it's worth the effort to buy a cheap rectifier off an R1 or just do it right and get an aftermarket one. I'm not a genius with electronics and don't want to risk anything going wrong. I'm checking out the stopper mod post now because I had never even heard of that.
#8
Hilbil really simple with a used rec and a harness like Eastern Beaver. Basically plug and play. Many threads on it..R/R Connectors
or complete kit that E posted..
or complete kit that E posted..
#9
hey hilbili, welcome to the forum!
Your much better getting a used R/R that you can verify its of the MOSFET circuit type(check part number)
Ive seen too many aftermarket ones claim to be MOSFET when its not(or most likely isnt)
And if your referring to an aftermarket one made for the superhawk dont bother, it will fail just like the factory ones, ask me how I know lol
As for the CCT you can also make your own manual ones out of the factory automatics. Disassemble, drill out, tap, insert carriage bolt with a lock nut and cap nut at the other end...
Your much better getting a used R/R that you can verify its of the MOSFET circuit type(check part number)
Ive seen too many aftermarket ones claim to be MOSFET when its not(or most likely isnt)
And if your referring to an aftermarket one made for the superhawk dont bother, it will fail just like the factory ones, ask me how I know lol
As for the CCT you can also make your own manual ones out of the factory automatics. Disassemble, drill out, tap, insert carriage bolt with a lock nut and cap nut at the other end...
#10
hey hilbili, welcome to the forum!
Your much better getting a used R/R that you can verify its of the MOSFET circuit type(check part number)
Ive seen too many aftermarket ones claim to be MOSFET when its not(or most likely isnt)
And if your referring to an aftermarket one made for the superhawk dont bother, it will fail just like the factory ones, ask me how I know lol
As for the CCT you can also make your own manual ones out of the factory automatics. Disassemble, drill out, tap, insert carriage bolt with a lock nut and cap nut at the other end...
Your much better getting a used R/R that you can verify its of the MOSFET circuit type(check part number)
Ive seen too many aftermarket ones claim to be MOSFET when its not(or most likely isnt)
And if your referring to an aftermarket one made for the superhawk dont bother, it will fail just like the factory ones, ask me how I know lol
As for the CCT you can also make your own manual ones out of the factory automatics. Disassemble, drill out, tap, insert carriage bolt with a lock nut and cap nut at the other end...
The Shindengen SH775 or better SH847 is the current newest best. And available as an OEM part on its own from a 2014 or newer DL1000, or as a kit as linked if you do not want to build your own wiring.
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