R1/R6 Regulator/Rectifier Swap
05-11-2009, 08:33 AM
#31
Josh
Superstock
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 278
Make sure its not just your battery thats dropped a cell.
Use a multimeter and give the bike some revs to see what voltage comes through, around 15.5v should be normal.
To be honest most RR's fit... just make sure they have connections, 1x positive, 1x negative and 3x for the pulse generator.
These R1 or R6 units are suitable because of there decent size and large heatsink to disperse the heat.
You will probably find that they are the same on most Suzuki's like the GSXF, Bandit etc.
Ebays your tool for pics and details.
Use a multimeter and give the bike some revs to see what voltage comes through, around 15.5v should be normal.
To be honest most RR's fit... just make sure they have connections, 1x positive, 1x negative and 3x for the pulse generator.
These R1 or R6 units are suitable because of there decent size and large heatsink to disperse the heat.
You will probably find that they are the same on most Suzuki's like the GSXF, Bandit etc.
Ebays your tool for pics and details.
05-12-2009, 09:25 AM
#33
Josh
Superstock
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 278
I went out and tested it. From 2.5k-6.5k no voltage difference. It was idleing at 2.5k because i had the choke out. She usually idles at about 1100. But anyways, 14V no matter what. So it is somewhat charging, but not much. Without bike on, the battery is at 12.8V. I ordered up a new rectifier 04 R6 rectifier. Does this make sense with a bad rectifier? I never tested my previous one because my battery blew up, so i knew it was bad.
05-26-2009, 09:20 AM
#36
Josh
Superstock
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 278
Well, it is true. I officially have had the first r1 rectifier to go bad. I only got 2 years of use out of it, probably less then 6k miles. The other night i was taking a friend home and Damn it just kept flashing between bright and standard. I had it on brights, but it didnt matter. I was really worried. The new rectifier came in the mail that day and i popped it in yesterday. No problems at all. No more flashing. I think it was overcharging. At idle it was running at 14v. Idle it should be lower. It also wouldn't change if i reved it. The new one at idle is around 13.7 or 13.8. I didn't have an extra pair of hands to rev it, so i am not sure how high it goes. All i know is that it works great!
Last edited by viperkillertt; 05-26-2009 at 09:24 AM.
05-26-2009, 09:25 AM
#37
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 3,132
Well, it is true. I officially have had the first r1 rectifier to go bad. I only got 2 years of use out of it, probably less then 6k miles. The other night i was taking a friend home and Damn it just kept flashing between bright and standard. I had it on brights, but it didnt matter. I was really worried. The new rectifier came in the mail that day and i popped it in yesterday. No problems at all. No more flashing. I think it was overcharging. At idle it was running at 14v. Idle it should be lower. It also wouldn't change if i reved it. The new one at idle is around 13.7 or 13.8. I didn't have an extra pair of hands to rev it, so i am not sure how high it goes. All i know is that it works great!
Only 6k miles in two years? You gotta get out riding more!
05-26-2009, 09:29 AM
#38
Josh
Superstock
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 278
I do ride every day. Once spring hits, it becomes my main transportation. I only use the supra for dates and moving things around. I just don't waste much fuel. I only drive where i "need" to go and i don't go on many riding trips. Once I get my big engineering job and i am making big money, i might do it more, but i still feel it is pretty wasteful. It is just me. I am a big tree hugger.
05-26-2009, 09:49 AM
#39
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 987
Honda says the R/R should be putting out LESS than 15.5V when running at 5,000 rpm.
Running too high a voltage will fry your solid state circuitry.
If your old one was 14V at idle, and the new part was quarter volt difference, then that in itself wasn't the issue. You have to actually rev it to see if the regulator is doing its job and limiting the voltage rise, I doubt it would ever need to regulate at idle.
Glad your bike is working, but I see a lot of misinformation in this thread.
Maybe you just had a loose connection. It's a good idea to solder those spade connectors (with R/R disconnected) and use bulb grease on the connections to prevent corrosion.
Running too high a voltage will fry your solid state circuitry.
If your old one was 14V at idle, and the new part was quarter volt difference, then that in itself wasn't the issue. You have to actually rev it to see if the regulator is doing its job and limiting the voltage rise, I doubt it would ever need to regulate at idle.
Glad your bike is working, but I see a lot of misinformation in this thread.
Maybe you just had a loose connection. It's a good idea to solder those spade connectors (with R/R disconnected) and use bulb grease on the connections to prevent corrosion.
05-26-2009, 10:20 AM
#40
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
Like CentralCoaster said... A working R/R should put out 14.5-15V at revs... Absolute max 15.5V... Above that you risk damaging stuff... At idle it should put out 13.5-14V with a minimum of around 12.5V... That means it's at all times above battery current...
05-26-2009, 12:03 PM
#41
Josh
Superstock
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 278
Honda says the R/R should be putting out LESS than 15.5V when running at 5,000 rpm.
Running too high a voltage will fry your solid state circuitry.
If your old one was 14V at idle, and the new part was quarter volt difference, then that in itself wasn't the issue. You have to actually rev it to see if the regulator is doing its job and limiting the voltage rise, I doubt it would ever need to regulate at idle.
Glad your bike is working, but I see a lot of misinformation in this thread.
Maybe you just had a loose connection. It's a good idea to solder those spade connectors (with R/R disconnected) and use bulb grease on the connections to prevent corrosion.
Running too high a voltage will fry your solid state circuitry.
If your old one was 14V at idle, and the new part was quarter volt difference, then that in itself wasn't the issue. You have to actually rev it to see if the regulator is doing its job and limiting the voltage rise, I doubt it would ever need to regulate at idle.
Glad your bike is working, but I see a lot of misinformation in this thread.
Maybe you just had a loose connection. It's a good idea to solder those spade connectors (with R/R disconnected) and use bulb grease on the connections to prevent corrosion.
06-01-2009, 07:36 AM
#42
Josh
Superstock
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 278
Ok guys,
I am still having some serious issues. The new Rectifier worked like a champ for 2 days and then well, it just dont. Last night at 1am on the way home, it almost went out half the time. If it was in standard brightness, it would flicker the brights on, with the light on the cluster, just like the last one. I am so confused. Anyone have any other ideas? I am thinking about cutting off the ends of the terminals and re soldering them. Is there anything else that might cause this insanity?
I am still having some serious issues. The new Rectifier worked like a champ for 2 days and then well, it just dont. Last night at 1am on the way home, it almost went out half the time. If it was in standard brightness, it would flicker the brights on, with the light on the cluster, just like the last one. I am so confused. Anyone have any other ideas? I am thinking about cutting off the ends of the terminals and re soldering them. Is there anything else that might cause this insanity?
06-01-2009, 08:59 AM
#45
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Westerly, RI
Posts: 1,216
06-01-2009, 09:47 AM
#46
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: San Diego
Posts: 916
Dont know if this has been stated yet but what is the condition of the battery?
My bike took a dump last week, it was due to a battery that was unable to take a charge. the extra voltage went back into the R/R and fried it along with a connection in the plug.
I replaced both and the bike is now extremely happy.
My bike took a dump last week, it was due to a battery that was unable to take a charge. the extra voltage went back into the R/R and fried it along with a connection in the plug.
I replaced both and the bike is now extremely happy.
06-01-2009, 10:51 AM
#47
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 987
Who knows, your old one may still be good too. A bad regulator will kill a battery and a bad battery will kill a regulator. I would try a new battery next, especially if you can just snag one off another bike temporarily.
06-01-2009, 11:02 AM
#48
Josh
Superstock
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 278
If it's charging at 14V, even at 6000 rpm, it's fine. Hopefully whatever else is going on didn't fry your new regulator.
Who knows, your old one may still be good too. A bad regulator will kill a battery and a bad battery will kill a regulator. I would try a new battery next, especially if you can just snag one off another bike temporarily.
Who knows, your old one may still be good too. A bad regulator will kill a battery and a bad battery will kill a regulator. I would try a new battery next, especially if you can just snag one off another bike temporarily.
06-11-2009, 03:11 PM
#49
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 6
REg/rec swap HELP
So I follow the instructions to the letter and strip the wiwres, and solder the ends, and crimp on female spades. I see where the two power wires are not put on the new reg/rec the way they come off of the stock unit, but are reversed.
All is well I put about 300 miles oon teh conversion and the other day on the way to a club ride ( with the alternator chargingh at 14 volts) I stopped and when I tried to restart NO JUICE in thte battery, had to be bump started. Headed for hhome all the while the voltage was droppin down. Got down trhe road and figured that the Yamaha reg/rec (part #4jh-81960-01) was the cullprit I stopped and put the Honda part back on (carried as a spare). No change, and the bike was running on batteery alone again. Got within 8n milies of home and she quit.
Took battery out, came back with a different one (from my wee-strom) and was aable to get home allright.
Tested the crap out of every wire and connector in the battery rectifier area for charge, for continuity and whatever.
Getting all kinds of results, not charging to 15,? that the manual says it shhould.
An inline test shows a 10, 8,4 amp draw going to the fuse(10) amp that goes to the odometer.???
GEt really pissed off and ride her down to the hONDA SHOP, THEY HAVE HAD IT FOR A FEW DAYS AND COME UP WITH 0,NADA ZILCH. Honda tech in Cali is of no help. So I telll the shop to quit looking for an answer, and that I will try the gurus on the Super hawk forum.
So, ha s anyone out here had the same problem ?
Should I start all over, or what?
Please do not make your replies too techy for me, or too condescending. Assume that I am a total noob (which I am) in matters concerning wires and ohms and volts, and amps and etc>
Thanks
Paul Roz ( V-twin Man)
All is well I put about 300 miles oon teh conversion and the other day on the way to a club ride ( with the alternator chargingh at 14 volts) I stopped and when I tried to restart NO JUICE in thte battery, had to be bump started. Headed for hhome all the while the voltage was droppin down. Got down trhe road and figured that the Yamaha reg/rec (part #4jh-81960-01) was the cullprit I stopped and put the Honda part back on (carried as a spare). No change, and the bike was running on batteery alone again. Got within 8n milies of home and she quit.
Took battery out, came back with a different one (from my wee-strom) and was aable to get home allright.
Tested the crap out of every wire and connector in the battery rectifier area for charge, for continuity and whatever.
Getting all kinds of results, not charging to 15,? that the manual says it shhould.
An inline test shows a 10, 8,4 amp draw going to the fuse(10) amp that goes to the odometer.???
GEt really pissed off and ride her down to the hONDA SHOP, THEY HAVE HAD IT FOR A FEW DAYS AND COME UP WITH 0,NADA ZILCH. Honda tech in Cali is of no help. So I telll the shop to quit looking for an answer, and that I will try the gurus on the Super hawk forum.
So, ha s anyone out here had the same problem ?
Should I start all over, or what?
Please do not make your replies too techy for me, or too condescending. Assume that I am a total noob (which I am) in matters concerning wires and ohms and volts, and amps and etc>
Thanks
Paul Roz ( V-twin Man)
06-12-2009, 09:56 PM
#51
guru of things sparky
SuperSport
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Prairie , Texas
Posts: 599
If you did the simple Stator testing and it checks out , its the R/R.
I know a lot of people use the yamaha parts as conversion, but you buy them used, this is what you get.
Its like buying a used tire. The longer they are ridden fast, the closer to BBQ they become. Buy a used one and you dont know how long the BBQ has been in the oven.
I will post the end-all of R/R and stator pages very soon.
It will feature an animated charging system that includes everything from the stator operation to the R/R operation to the battery. I think it would be of great utility for everyone. At the end, a big loud nasty pop-up will flash onto the screen in an attempt to hypnotize you and make you buy a Blue Tungsten Rectifier! muhahaha !
No, just kidding about that. But the diagram will shed a lot of light as to why these things ( stators and Rectifiers ) do what they do , and die hard deaths.
I know a lot of people use the yamaha parts as conversion, but you buy them used, this is what you get.
Its like buying a used tire. The longer they are ridden fast, the closer to BBQ they become. Buy a used one and you dont know how long the BBQ has been in the oven.
I will post the end-all of R/R and stator pages very soon.
It will feature an animated charging system that includes everything from the stator operation to the R/R operation to the battery. I think it would be of great utility for everyone. At the end, a big loud nasty pop-up will flash onto the screen in an attempt to hypnotize you and make you buy a Blue Tungsten Rectifier! muhahaha !
No, just kidding about that. But the diagram will shed a lot of light as to why these things ( stators and Rectifiers ) do what they do , and die hard deaths.
08-31-2009, 07:35 PM
#53
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 4
Amp output?
Is there a definitive answer on the stock stator's peak amp output? I've seen 'about 22' (which I'm inclined to believe) in one thread, and 'nearly 40' on the OP's site. It looks like a lot of replacements have been 35A units. I've got a 35A FH001 ready to go and an (35-50??) FH010 on the way after the stock seat heater/RR burned up* - any solid measurements would be greatly appreciated - cheers!
*stator checks out OK, no burnt connectors, battery takes charge to 13V+, Eastern Beaver's Furukawa connectors arrived quickest...just about rolling again!
*stator checks out OK, no burnt connectors, battery takes charge to 13V+, Eastern Beaver's Furukawa connectors arrived quickest...just about rolling again!
Last edited by DaFrPa; 08-31-2009 at 07:55 PM.
11-05-2009, 12:45 PM
#57
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Brighton, UK
Posts: 28
If it looks like the one in the pic then its a 2002 onwards.
Not sure on the two connection blocks on the bottom, but as long as you can connect a positive and a negative and 3 wires for the pickup/pulse using female spade connectors then you should be fine.
Not sure on the two connection blocks on the bottom, but as long as you can connect a positive and a negative and 3 wires for the pickup/pulse using female spade connectors then you should be fine.
11-05-2009, 01:29 PM
#60
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Brighton, UK
Posts: 28
Its been discussed but maybe its because your fitting a more modern unit R/R.
As far as i can see from a wiring diagram, the grey socket houses 3 connections for the pulse/pickup wires and the black socket houses 2 connections for the negative (+) and positive (-).
The diagram below will show which order the (+) and (-) fits.
As far as i can see from a wiring diagram, the grey socket houses 3 connections for the pulse/pickup wires and the black socket houses 2 connections for the negative (+) and positive (-).
The diagram below will show which order the (+) and (-) fits.
Last edited by CyberBeast; 11-05-2009 at 01:49 PM.
