MOSFET Regulator/Rectifiers - The Why & The How
08-27-2013, 11:41 AM
#181
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 14
I installed my new R/R without a problem today. I ordered the super-kit from Roadstercycle.com and couldn't have been more pleased. It came with connectors that didn't require any soldering already fitted into heatshrink tubing. The most challenging part was finding space for all the wires.
I would suggest getting the version with the circuit breaker, I had to undo one of the terminals so I could fit them through the frame. I don't know if the fused version is as easy to take apart. Also, with the FH0012AA you're going to have to use a different bolt than what's used by the stock R/R. I used M6-1.00 x 25 with a pan head top because that's all that Lowe's had. It fits fine with a washer, and the ground wire. But if there is something that's just a bit smaller take that.
Before I replaced the RR I noticed that my right side blinkers when much faster than the left side ones. I chalked that up the old RR being a jerk but it's still happening now. I'm going to try cleaning the connection to the relay to see if that evens them out. I wouldn't mind having them both blink extra fast though, that's for a different thread though.
I would suggest getting the version with the circuit breaker, I had to undo one of the terminals so I could fit them through the frame. I don't know if the fused version is as easy to take apart. Also, with the FH0012AA you're going to have to use a different bolt than what's used by the stock R/R. I used M6-1.00 x 25 with a pan head top because that's all that Lowe's had. It fits fine with a washer, and the ground wire. But if there is something that's just a bit smaller take that.
Before I replaced the RR I noticed that my right side blinkers when much faster than the left side ones. I chalked that up the old RR being a jerk but it's still happening now. I'm going to try cleaning the connection to the relay to see if that evens them out. I wouldn't mind having them both blink extra fast though, that's for a different thread though.
09-13-2013, 03:23 AM
#182
Member
Squid
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Canberra ACT Australia
Posts: 42
Timing.. its everything
I installed my new R/R without a problem today. I ordered the super-kit from Roadstercycle.com and couldn't have been more pleased. It came with connectors that didn't require any soldering already fitted into heatshrink tubing. The most challenging part was finding space for all the wires .
Would you believe I was just about to send Tweety a PM asking if the same outfit (Roadstercycles.com) was a good outfit to be buying MOSFET R/R's from.. Thanks for both saving me the time and giving a nice little write up on the experience! Cheers!
All's that left now if to open a new browser window and pull out the credit card!
10-19-2013, 07:44 AM
#183
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Brighton, UK
Posts: 5
Honda CBR1000RR 2006 Problems
I would really appreciate some advice with regard to what has happened to my bike.
I have recently had a new battery fitted after the charging system was checked and found to be ok then the rocker cover gasket went bang which I was told was down to the stator being bad and the copper wire igniting oil vapour and leading to the rocker cover gasket going bang.
Anyway, I had my stator and reg/rec sent to West Country Windings who told me and the garage that when the parts were returned I should bypass the main wiring loom by going direct to the battery terminals.
I believe they said this is due to the main wiring loom where 5 earth points are crimped together which can become fuzzy and the excess voltage is not dissipated properly which in turn leads to big problems so by running a bypass from the reg/rec this will not cause problems in future.
I went to collect my bike yesterday after the garage received my rewound stator and new reg/rec which I believe from WCW is a MOSFET RR but no bypass wiring so the garage rang them to be told that it isn't needed which concerns me as I don't want to ride it now without making things right.
I contacted Jack at Roadstercycle and he said to go for the superharness but I am unsure if I need the full kit or just go for the kit from Jim at Eastern Beaver from the RR to the battery and I am unsure which one to get and whether I need to do anything else, check connections anywhere for corrosion, etc.
Any help/advice would be much appreciated and sorry for the long hijack.
I have recently had a new battery fitted after the charging system was checked and found to be ok then the rocker cover gasket went bang which I was told was down to the stator being bad and the copper wire igniting oil vapour and leading to the rocker cover gasket going bang.
Anyway, I had my stator and reg/rec sent to West Country Windings who told me and the garage that when the parts were returned I should bypass the main wiring loom by going direct to the battery terminals.
I believe they said this is due to the main wiring loom where 5 earth points are crimped together which can become fuzzy and the excess voltage is not dissipated properly which in turn leads to big problems so by running a bypass from the reg/rec this will not cause problems in future.
I went to collect my bike yesterday after the garage received my rewound stator and new reg/rec which I believe from WCW is a MOSFET RR but no bypass wiring so the garage rang them to be told that it isn't needed which concerns me as I don't want to ride it now without making things right.
I contacted Jack at Roadstercycle and he said to go for the superharness but I am unsure if I need the full kit or just go for the kit from Jim at Eastern Beaver from the RR to the battery and I am unsure which one to get and whether I need to do anything else, check connections anywhere for corrosion, etc.
Any help/advice would be much appreciated and sorry for the long hijack.
11-08-2013, 09:00 AM
#184
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Chattanooga,TN
Posts: 195
I found a regulator from a 2006 R6 locally for $20 and was wondering if it will work the same. It has a single plug with 5 connections, I'm assuming just make a harness for it once I found out which terminal is which?
11-08-2013, 09:41 AM
#185
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 3,869
It should work just fine. I think the 05/06 ones were the ones with huge fins that you'll have to trim down a bit, but you can crimp terminals on your wires and attach them easy enough. Fill it with hot melt glue to keep all the water out as a bonus. Discerning wires is fairly easy. Yellow don't matter, red/green do.
11-08-2013, 11:52 AM
#186
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Chattanooga,TN
Posts: 195
It should work just fine. I think the 05/06 ones were the ones with huge fins that you'll have to trim down a bit, but you can crimp terminals on your wires and attach them easy enough. Fill it with hot melt glue to keep all the water out as a bonus. Discerning wires is fairly easy. Yellow don't matter, red/green do.
01-25-2014, 01:03 AM
#187
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Canberra, Australia
Posts: 1
MOSFET
Hi, Tweety. I joined this forum so that I could thank you for describing so well the advantages of MOSFETs. I do not own a Superhawk, but I have a Kawasaki KLR 650 which has a non-MOSFET shunt regulator/rectifier. The knowledge that you have so freely given is excellent. It is great to have people like you (and the other posters) available and willing to give their time.
For the record, I have a CBR1000R MOSFET regulator/rectifier coming, and I do not expect any problems fitting it because of your excellent article.
Thank you. Rob
For the record, I have a CBR1000R MOSFET regulator/rectifier coming, and I do not expect any problems fitting it because of your excellent article.
Thank you. Rob
01-26-2014, 01:50 PM
#189
Administrator
MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 4,402
02-19-2014, 03:36 PM
#190
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Seattle
Posts: 250
Thanks to Tweety and several other members contributing to this thread... E. Marquez. 7Moore7. And others... you know who you are.
I replaced my Superhawk stock R/R with an ebay RR from a ZX10 as per Tweety's list.
PUNY OEM REGULATOR.
I looked at the list that Tweety posted, and then did an ebay search.
The ZX-10 2004-> seemed like an easy target, and I found several 2004 or newer models.
Then I made sure the pictures SHOWED where it said FH on the unit before buying it.
(not the actual unit that i bought.. the ebay pics were way too big to post here)
I cut the wiring plug off and attached 5 female spade connectors to my VTR wiring, with heat shrink over the connection and more heat shrink over the spade connector itself.
Now it's charging great, and I just bought another unit for my VFR800 that has been popping headlight bulbs a little too frequently.
Each unit was right around $40 shipped.
As depicted here, the 3 yellow wires go on the left side in any order.
The other two wires go on the right side, with the power on the inside and the other wire towards the outside.
THIS WORKED VERY WELL FOR ME, AND IN REALITY WAS MUCH SIMPLER THAN IT SEEMS.
YMMV. (that means if you screw something up, I'm really sorry)
mw~~60_12.JPG?set_id=880000500F)
I replaced my Superhawk stock R/R with an ebay RR from a ZX10 as per Tweety's list.
PUNY OEM REGULATOR.
I looked at the list that Tweety posted, and then did an ebay search.
The ZX-10 2004-> seemed like an easy target, and I found several 2004 or newer models.
Then I made sure the pictures SHOWED where it said FH on the unit before buying it.
(not the actual unit that i bought.. the ebay pics were way too big to post here)
I cut the wiring plug off and attached 5 female spade connectors to my VTR wiring, with heat shrink over the connection and more heat shrink over the spade connector itself.
Now it's charging great, and I just bought another unit for my VFR800 that has been popping headlight bulbs a little too frequently.
Each unit was right around $40 shipped.
As depicted here, the 3 yellow wires go on the left side in any order.
The other two wires go on the right side, with the power on the inside and the other wire towards the outside.
THIS WORKED VERY WELL FOR ME, AND IN REALITY WAS MUCH SIMPLER THAN IT SEEMS.
YMMV. (that means if you screw something up, I'm really sorry)
Last edited by FTL900; 02-19-2014 at 03:55 PM.
02-19-2014, 04:49 PM
#191
Administrator
MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 4,402
Thanks to Tweety and several other members contributing to this thread... E. Marquez. 7Moore7. And others... you know who you are.
I replaced my Superhawk stock R/R with an ebay RR from a ZX10 as per Tweety's list.
PUNY OEM REGULATOR.
I looked at the list that Tweety posted, and then did an ebay search.
The ZX-10 2004-> seemed like an easy target, and I found several 2004 or newer models.
Then I made sure the pictures SHOWED where it said FH on the unit before buying it.
(not the actual unit that i bought.. the ebay pics were way too big to post here)
I cut the wiring plug off and attached 5 female spade connectors to my VTR wiring, with heat shrink over the connection and more heat shrink over the spade connector itself.
Now it's charging great, and I just bought another unit for my VFR800 that has been popping headlight bulbs a little too frequently.
Each unit was right around $40 shipped.
As depicted here, the 3 yellow wires go on the left side in any order.
The other two wires go on the right side, with the power on the inside and the other wire towards the outside.
THIS WORKED VERY WELL FOR ME, AND IN REALITY WAS MUCH SIMPLER THAN IT SEEMS.
YMMV. (that means if you screw something up, I'm really sorry)
I replaced my Superhawk stock R/R with an ebay RR from a ZX10 as per Tweety's list.
PUNY OEM REGULATOR.
I looked at the list that Tweety posted, and then did an ebay search.
The ZX-10 2004-> seemed like an easy target, and I found several 2004 or newer models.
Then I made sure the pictures SHOWED where it said FH on the unit before buying it.
(not the actual unit that i bought.. the ebay pics were way too big to post here)
I cut the wiring plug off and attached 5 female spade connectors to my VTR wiring, with heat shrink over the connection and more heat shrink over the spade connector itself.
Now it's charging great, and I just bought another unit for my VFR800 that has been popping headlight bulbs a little too frequently.
Each unit was right around $40 shipped.
As depicted here, the 3 yellow wires go on the left side in any order.
The other two wires go on the right side, with the power on the inside and the other wire towards the outside.
THIS WORKED VERY WELL FOR ME, AND IN REALITY WAS MUCH SIMPLER THAN IT SEEMS.
YMMV. (that means if you screw something up, I'm really sorry)
One thing, they method you used to connect the R/R.. individual spade connectors... has the same issue as the OEM plug,, it's open to the weather.
Might I suggest you get a sealed plug from Eastern Beaver or Corsa Technic
Corsa Technic, LLC Motorsport Connectors, Motorcycle Connectors, Sensors
Home
Or another place of your choosing, and install the sealed plug available..
05-17-2014, 02:14 AM
#192
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Brighton, UK
Posts: 5
Thanks E.Marquez but I am not sure which connectors to buy to replace the burnt connector from my stator to the reg/rec.
I've been looking at Metripack connectors to make the connectors more weatherproof but I am unsure if they will take the required load.
Any advice on which connectors to buy would be much appreciated.
I've been looking at Metripack connectors to make the connectors more weatherproof but I am unsure if they will take the required load.
Any advice on which connectors to buy would be much appreciated.
05-17-2014, 04:22 AM
#193
Administrator
MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 4,402
Thanks E.Marquez but I am not sure which connectors to buy to replace the burnt connector from my stator to the reg/rec.
I've been looking at Metripack connectors to make the connectors more weatherproof but I am unsure if they will take the required load.
Any advice on which connectors to buy would be much appreciated.
I've been looking at Metripack connectors to make the connectors more weatherproof but I am unsure if they will take the required load.
Any advice on which connectors to buy would be much appreciated.
And Please post a pic of the R/R
05-17-2014, 06:27 AM
#194
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Brighton, UK
Posts: 5
The RR that I have is through this company:
Honda CBR1000, CBR1000RR (Fireblade), CBF1000 Regulator Rectifier | Electrex World Ltd
The connector from the stator is burnt and needs either replacing along with the RR connector that goes into it or I'm wondering if I can take the connectors off and use different connectors or just join the wires individually together but then how would I test each part in the future if I did that.
Any advice with regard to these things would be great.
Honda CBR1000, CBR1000RR (Fireblade), CBF1000 Regulator Rectifier | Electrex World Ltd
The connector from the stator is burnt and needs either replacing along with the RR connector that goes into it or I'm wondering if I can take the connectors off and use different connectors or just join the wires individually together but then how would I test each part in the future if I did that.
Any advice with regard to these things would be great.
05-17-2014, 08:57 AM
#195
Administrator
MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 4,402
The RR that I have is through this company:
Honda CBR1000, CBR1000RR (Fireblade), CBF1000 Regulator Rectifier | Electrex World Ltd
The connector from the stator is burnt and needs either replacing along with the RR connector that goes into it or I'm wondering if I can take the connectors off and use different connectors or just join the wires individually together but then how would I test each part in the future if I did that.
Any advice with regard to these things would be great.
Honda CBR1000, CBR1000RR (Fireblade), CBF1000 Regulator Rectifier | Electrex World Ltd
The connector from the stator is burnt and needs either replacing along with the RR connector that goes into it or I'm wondering if I can take the connectors off and use different connectors or just join the wires individually together but then how would I test each part in the future if I did that.
Any advice with regard to these things would be great.
Honda CBR1000, CBR1000RR (Fireblade), CBF1000 Regulator Rectifier | Electrex World Ltd
If thats what you bought I would send it back.. It appears to be a diode style, not a MOFSET type.
Plugs for the better MOFSET can be had from Easternbeaver or Corsa Technic, LLC Motorsport Interconnect Products, Motorcycle Connectors, Sensors now
Your asking for Furukawa .250 connector set (one black, one grey, 5 seals for 14 - 12 AWG, one sealing plug and 5 Terminals) fitting a SHINDENGEN FH020AA REGULATOR/RECTIFIER (also fits FH020, FH012, FH011, FH010, and FH009)
05-26-2014, 11:38 PM
#196
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 4
The PO of my '98 mentioned replacing the battery last year and again this spring, before selling it, so I figured a MOSFET R/R might be in order. I installed the super-kit from Roadstercycle.com this weekend, and also couldn't have been more pleased. The only reason it took 45 minutes was that I simply couldn't believe it was so simple, and so easy. The video instructions on the web site are adequate and the kit has wire lengths that allow an easy install on a VTR.
The installation was dead easy:
1) Cut the three stator wires from the OEM harness
2) crimp, solder and shrink wrap them to the supplied harness
3) plug in the stator bundle and the battery bundle to the new R/R
4) route the wiring
5) bolt the new R/R in
I simply used one bolt with a spring washer to mount the new R/R in the top OEM bolt hole as the FH0020 is much bigger than the stock unit. Also, the FH0020 is thicker than the stock R/R so a longer mounting bolt is definitely required. A 1" M6 worked, which was oddly fortunate as it was the ONLY spare bolt I had in the house. But despite the larger size and all the cooling fins it still fits cleanly under the body work, no mods.
I ordered the kit with the circuit breaker option, and found it simple to feed the wire harness though the frame to connect directly to the battery, per their instructions.
5 or 6 rides and 5 hours of running time and it seems to be working as advertised!
The installation was dead easy:
1) Cut the three stator wires from the OEM harness
2) crimp, solder and shrink wrap them to the supplied harness
3) plug in the stator bundle and the battery bundle to the new R/R
4) route the wiring
5) bolt the new R/R in
I simply used one bolt with a spring washer to mount the new R/R in the top OEM bolt hole as the FH0020 is much bigger than the stock unit. Also, the FH0020 is thicker than the stock R/R so a longer mounting bolt is definitely required. A 1" M6 worked, which was oddly fortunate as it was the ONLY spare bolt I had in the house. But despite the larger size and all the cooling fins it still fits cleanly under the body work, no mods.
I ordered the kit with the circuit breaker option, and found it simple to feed the wire harness though the frame to connect directly to the battery, per their instructions.
5 or 6 rides and 5 hours of running time and it seems to be working as advertised!
06-20-2014, 06:44 AM
#197
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Charlotte NC
Posts: 12
Part 06, why old R/R's and new batteries doesn't mix well...
As a result of this, a typical thyristor based R/R will produce 13.5-14.5V if it's healthy... And in semi healthy condition usually 13.2-14.8V... But depending on the temperature in the R/R, RPM and how fast the RPM changes it will swing wildly between these values at random...
A MOSFET based R/R in new condition usually provides 13.5-14.5V, and in semi healthy condition (which takes about 20-30 times longer than the thyristor's to age into) the same 13.2-14.8V...
But... And that's a pretty important but... The MOSFET R/R tends to go towards middle voltage at just off idle RPM, and then towards lower voltage at high RPM, with only small peaks towards higher voltage usually when the RPM's change... Also the swings are slower, more controlled...
A SLA want's 13.8-14V or soo to charge, a GEL usually want's 14.1-14.2V to charge... Most SLA's "boil" and get reduced lifetime if the spend to much time above roughly 14.2V, same goes for GEL's at 14.5V... Drop to low and they simple stop charging... Just below optimal charging and you get "maintainance mode" as in most chargers...
This means that as long as the battery is in good condition it has no problems coping with a semi reliable R/R of either type... But a thyristor based R/R will age it sooner, and ages itself sooner... And then you get problems...
A MOSFET based R/R keeps the battery lasting longer, keeps the voltage more constant, which is good for the ECU/CDI, the electronics in the gauges, the fuses and also keeps the lightbulbs in your headlight happy since it likes just above 14V to make peak light output (provided you have decent wiring too it)...
Both types will make fireworks and smoke when they battery boils over if a diode in the Rectifier decides to go wide open, and both will stop charging the battery if it fuses... But a MOSFET Regulator takes a very, very long time to go "bad" enough to create the heat needed for damaging the Rectifier diodes... Corroded connectors are obviously something that affects both equally in terms of resistance/heat...
Now for the LiFePo's... They like to be charged at 13.6-14.4V, and very, very optimally at around 13.8V... They highly dislike going above 14.4V since that charges them very rapidly with no real way for them to dissapate the heat, and charging to much at lower than 13.4V will build up internal resistance which reduces lifetime...
So a thyristor based R/R in peak condition will work decently... But only in peak condition... A MOSFET one will work even in semi decent condition since it rarely peaks and if it does it's a short time... It might reduce lifetime, but it's unlikely to blow stuff up...
The LiFePo's are no more volatile than SLA or GEL batteries when they go poof, infact they tend to make less damage since the chemicals don't eat through aluminium, and also since they contain much smaller volumes of chemicals simply becuase they are much smaller... But the margin for error is a bit less...
As a result of this, a typical thyristor based R/R will produce 13.5-14.5V if it's healthy... And in semi healthy condition usually 13.2-14.8V... But depending on the temperature in the R/R, RPM and how fast the RPM changes it will swing wildly between these values at random...
A MOSFET based R/R in new condition usually provides 13.5-14.5V, and in semi healthy condition (which takes about 20-30 times longer than the thyristor's to age into) the same 13.2-14.8V...
But... And that's a pretty important but... The MOSFET R/R tends to go towards middle voltage at just off idle RPM, and then towards lower voltage at high RPM, with only small peaks towards higher voltage usually when the RPM's change... Also the swings are slower, more controlled...
A SLA want's 13.8-14V or soo to charge, a GEL usually want's 14.1-14.2V to charge... Most SLA's "boil" and get reduced lifetime if the spend to much time above roughly 14.2V, same goes for GEL's at 14.5V... Drop to low and they simple stop charging... Just below optimal charging and you get "maintainance mode" as in most chargers...
This means that as long as the battery is in good condition it has no problems coping with a semi reliable R/R of either type... But a thyristor based R/R will age it sooner, and ages itself sooner... And then you get problems...
A MOSFET based R/R keeps the battery lasting longer, keeps the voltage more constant, which is good for the ECU/CDI, the electronics in the gauges, the fuses and also keeps the lightbulbs in your headlight happy since it likes just above 14V to make peak light output (provided you have decent wiring too it)...
Both types will make fireworks and smoke when they battery boils over if a diode in the Rectifier decides to go wide open, and both will stop charging the battery if it fuses... But a MOSFET Regulator takes a very, very long time to go "bad" enough to create the heat needed for damaging the Rectifier diodes... Corroded connectors are obviously something that affects both equally in terms of resistance/heat...
Now for the LiFePo's... They like to be charged at 13.6-14.4V, and very, very optimally at around 13.8V... They highly dislike going above 14.4V since that charges them very rapidly with no real way for them to dissapate the heat, and charging to much at lower than 13.4V will build up internal resistance which reduces lifetime...
So a thyristor based R/R in peak condition will work decently... But only in peak condition... A MOSFET one will work even in semi decent condition since it rarely peaks and if it does it's a short time... It might reduce lifetime, but it's unlikely to blow stuff up...
The LiFePo's are no more volatile than SLA or GEL batteries when they go poof, infact they tend to make less damage since the chemicals don't eat through aluminium, and also since they contain much smaller volumes of chemicals simply becuase they are much smaller... But the margin for error is a bit less...
01-07-2015, 05:47 PM
#198
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 9
note: these images are unapologetically nabbed from google images.(and above)[/QUOTE]
So for anyone interested in ordering the wire harness pictured here it is Triumph part #: T2500676 and only cost about $12. I think it will work with almost any 5 wire Shindegen reg./rect. There is also an eBay store selling FH020AA with starting bids at $0.99. I saw one go for $17 the other day. They do have a buy now for $69.99(many available). The store is: nps. Stands for national product sales, got mine with no problems.
01-08-2015, 04:57 PM
#200
Senior Member
SuperBike
SuperBike
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,509
This thread helped me pick up an FH010 from a zx10. I made up a bracket for it, and just test fit the FH010 in the stock location. The tailsection fits perfectly!
The bracket uses the stock top mounting hole (m6-1.0 x 25mm screw to go through the bracket, and FH010), and i used a countersunk m6-1.0 x screw in the stock bottom mounting hole to secure the bracket to the frame. The rectifier is quite a bit larger, and it's bottom mounting hole goes into a tapped m6-1.0 hole that i put in the aluminum bracket. I'll use Loctite, an m6-1.0 x 15mm screw, and won't tighten the bottom bolt too much into the aluminum.
P.S. I also relieved the mounting bracket where the FH010 mounting flanges are. This ensures the FH010 mates flat on the bracket to ensure proper heat dispersion
James
The bracket uses the stock top mounting hole (m6-1.0 x 25mm screw to go through the bracket, and FH010), and i used a countersunk m6-1.0 x screw in the stock bottom mounting hole to secure the bracket to the frame. The rectifier is quite a bit larger, and it's bottom mounting hole goes into a tapped m6-1.0 hole that i put in the aluminum bracket. I'll use Loctite, an m6-1.0 x 15mm screw, and won't tighten the bottom bolt too much into the aluminum.
P.S. I also relieved the mounting bracket where the FH010 mounting flanges are. This ensures the FH010 mates flat on the bracket to ensure proper heat dispersion
James
Last edited by thedeatons; 01-08-2015 at 06:10 PM.
01-09-2015, 10:48 AM
#202
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 9
more r/r info
I thought I would share this here as it is where I first started learning about r/r's, not only is there a huge amount of info from some guys that know much more about electrical systems than I ever will but there is also a rather extensive list of r/r specifications and what machines they are on.....careful there is enough r/r discussion to give most anyone a headache.
Rectifier/Regulator replacement list
I would also like to say thanks for all the Hawk specific info already provided. Cheers!
Rectifier/Regulator replacement list
I would also like to say thanks for all the Hawk specific info already provided. Cheers!
03-25-2015, 01:58 AM
#204
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Brighton, UK
Posts: 5
MOSFET RR FH020AA
I have a 2006 Fireblade with charging problems and I have decided on getting the FH020AA MOSFET RR, I am hoping the stator and battery are not shot too.
My questions are:
1. Did you find any difficulties putting it in place of the OEM unit. Do I need to get anything fabricated to have the FH020AA fit?
2. I am not sure whether to go with the maxi fuse holder or auto circuit breaker?
3. I have been told that it comes with 8 inches of wire from the stator to the new reg/rec but I'm not sure if I need more wire?
While I am talking electrics. Sometimes the headlight hasn't come on when the bike has been started but if I push the start button a few times it will be ok. I am not sure what is going on here.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
My questions are:
1. Did you find any difficulties putting it in place of the OEM unit. Do I need to get anything fabricated to have the FH020AA fit?
2. I am not sure whether to go with the maxi fuse holder or auto circuit breaker?
3. I have been told that it comes with 8 inches of wire from the stator to the new reg/rec but I'm not sure if I need more wire?
While I am talking electrics. Sometimes the headlight hasn't come on when the bike has been started but if I push the start button a few times it will be ok. I am not sure what is going on here.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
04-26-2015, 10:24 AM
#205
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Bisbee, AZ
Posts: 1,873
I came across this on a GS(?) forum site. Seems the mighty spinning prop has R/R issues as well.
I edited out all the non FET R/Rs that were originally on the list. I can't vouch for the accuracy.
Make & Model R/R Brand R/R Model Description
Honda CBR1000RR 08 Shindengen FH-008EB 12V FET 40 Amps rating (with wire tails and plugs) Caution: This may have connector sockets that are not compatible with the available wiring kits
Honda CBR1000RR 08 Shindengen FH-014AA 12V FET 50 Amps rating
Kawasaki Concours 1400GTR 08-09 Shindengen FH-012AB FET 50 Amps rating 14.4V-15.0V
Kawasaki ZX10/14, R1, FJR 05-06 Shindengen FH-010AA 12V FET 50 Amps rating 14.3V -15.1V
Kawasaki ZX10 2005 Shindengen FH-010BA 12V FET 50 Amps rating 14.3V -15.1V
Yamaha FJR 2006 R1 Shindengen FH-012 12V FET 50 Amps rating 14.5
Yamaha FJR13 2007 Shindengen FH-012 12V FET 50 Amps rating 14.5V
Yamaha FZS10 2007 Shindengen FH-012 12V 50 Amps rating 14.5V
Yamaha RX1 03 Shindengen FH-001 12V FET 40 Amps rating 14.1V - 14.9
Yamaha YZF-R1 02 Shindengen FH-001 12V FET 40 Amps / 200V rating 14.1V - 14.9V
Yamaha YZF-R1 04-06 Shindengen FH-011AA 12V FET 50 Amps / 100V rating 14.3V - 15.1V (has very tall fins, consider if enough space)
Yamaha YZF-R1 2007 Shindengen FH-012AA 12V FET 50 Amps / 40V rating 14.2V - 14.8V
Yamaha Snowmobile 07/08 Shindengen FH-012AA 12V FET 50 Amps / 40V rating 14.2V - 14.8V
Unknown Shindengen FH-019 FET 50 Amps rating, 14.2V
I edited out all the non FET R/Rs that were originally on the list. I can't vouch for the accuracy.
Make & Model R/R Brand R/R Model Description
Honda CBR1000RR 08 Shindengen FH-008EB 12V FET 40 Amps rating (with wire tails and plugs) Caution: This may have connector sockets that are not compatible with the available wiring kits
Honda CBR1000RR 08 Shindengen FH-014AA 12V FET 50 Amps rating
Kawasaki Concours 1400GTR 08-09 Shindengen FH-012AB FET 50 Amps rating 14.4V-15.0V
Kawasaki ZX10/14, R1, FJR 05-06 Shindengen FH-010AA 12V FET 50 Amps rating 14.3V -15.1V
Kawasaki ZX10 2005 Shindengen FH-010BA 12V FET 50 Amps rating 14.3V -15.1V
Yamaha FJR 2006 R1 Shindengen FH-012 12V FET 50 Amps rating 14.5
Yamaha FJR13 2007 Shindengen FH-012 12V FET 50 Amps rating 14.5V
Yamaha FZS10 2007 Shindengen FH-012 12V 50 Amps rating 14.5V
Yamaha RX1 03 Shindengen FH-001 12V FET 40 Amps rating 14.1V - 14.9
Yamaha YZF-R1 02 Shindengen FH-001 12V FET 40 Amps / 200V rating 14.1V - 14.9V
Yamaha YZF-R1 04-06 Shindengen FH-011AA 12V FET 50 Amps / 100V rating 14.3V - 15.1V (has very tall fins, consider if enough space)
Yamaha YZF-R1 2007 Shindengen FH-012AA 12V FET 50 Amps / 40V rating 14.2V - 14.8V
Yamaha Snowmobile 07/08 Shindengen FH-012AA 12V FET 50 Amps / 40V rating 14.2V - 14.8V
Unknown Shindengen FH-019 FET 50 Amps rating, 14.2V
05-19-2015, 07:54 AM
#206
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Bisbee, AZ
Posts: 1,873
Here is an interesting read on a new model of R/R from Shindengen. Charging System Diagnostics - Rectifier/Regulator Upgrade - Page 2 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
06-01-2015, 10:41 AM
#207
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 2
Just wanted to mention a lot of larger Honda ATVs use mosfet regulators TRX500 Foreman claims to have a 481 watt alternator so i would guess probably rate at about 40a. also much cheaper used then others mentioned. i have a 03 650 rincon that uses a mosfet regulator looks like most of the 2 plug versions seen in this thread. took pic from ebay listing but mine looks just like this.
06-01-2015, 11:33 AM
#208
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 2,312
Just wanted to mention a lot of larger Honda ATVs use mosfet regulators TRX500 Foreman claims to have a 481 watt alternator so i would guess probably rate at about 40a. also much cheaper used then others mentioned. i have a 03 650 rincon that uses a mosfet regulator looks like most of the 2 plug versions seen in this thread. took pic from ebay listing but mine looks just like this.
