Wolverine

"It tells us that you participate in the mass cultural delusion that the sun's apparent position relative to arbitrarily defined constellations at the time of your birth somehow affects your personality."

skokievtr

I'll give it a quick wipe down after each ride (having a Handy Lift makes this easy) with a selection of spray and hand applied chemicals and microfiber towels. Water-based corrosion inhibitors and surfactant cleaners are utilized only after riding in the rain and when snow-melt is on the road. Major cleanings are done during tire changes (which I do on my own No Mar machine), air filter changes, and valve lash checks and adjustments. I know the bike so well I can do all dis/re-assembly and maintenance practically in my sleep. Front cylinder valve checks / adjustments are still a PITA but without the PAIR system and with the APE CCT it's manageable; although pulling the fairing is to be avoided because I have dozen added electrical circuits with miles of wiring, relays and connections that complicate things a fair bit.

I alternate my rides between my VTR and new FJ-09 now but have two spare VTR engines waiting for a chance but the original refuses to retire. A vacuum leak down test on it this spring indicated it was well less than 5%. As soon as the engine was wore-in at about 4,000 miles I started using auto spec Mobil 1 10W-40 (or was it 5W-50?) but when they changed the formula wear packages I went to Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic. I also use Purolator's PL14610 oil filter (now their "BOSS" version due to insufficient concave engine - filter interface).

Before the FJ-09, I also rode a 81 Kawasaki GPZ550D1 that I sold with 63,000 miles, a 84 Honda VF500 with 50,000, 88 Honda NT650 with 68,000, 72 Kawi H2 Mach IV with only 23,000 but I still have my 77 Yamaha RD400. Before that it was all Matchless and AJS singles and twins, and before that BSA, Norton, Ariel, BMW, a 1975 MV Agusta 750S America (for 2 weeks before I turned it over for then "Big Money") and other marques.

My philosophy and ethic regarding keeping two wheeled and winged conveyances on which you risk life and limb is reflected in my first post-degree employer's company motto (Convair), "Only Right Is Right".

BTW, "Clip-Ons" are Dan Moto 3-D with longer stainless steel socket head cap screws, askew washers and Nylock nuts. I ran similar Tommaselli 3-axis bars for many years before but needed more rise due to a neck injury in a bicycle crash (caused by another bicyclist!), and before that for a few years, Helibars. Grips are ProGrip gels safety wired, and I like the NEP throttle lock in conjunction with the rear carburetor spring disconnected and a customized Cramp Buster.

smokinjoe73

Skokie I am always amazed at how similar our bikes are set up. Right down to the cruise control, top box, added dash gauges, body protection etc.

Do you have your rear indicator lights on always as running lights? I have mirror leds and fairing leds as running lights in the front. I mounted red leds into the rear turn signal lenses as running lights.

One difference is how clean your bike is. I ride daily so in the rain often. My bike wishes it were cleaner.

skokievtr

Joe,

I run the Lockhart Phillips Type 3 three-wire turn signal / running lights with the clear lenses up front but gutted the internals and installed Custom LED's insert with the amber and white LEDs. I then installed the VTR OEM front turn signal / running lights in the rear and ran a third wire that is powered by an ignition-on circuit but run some very bright LED "bulbs" I bought on Ebay. I also wired up my own low-draw turn signal flasher. So the the rears are turns and running lights, although amber lens rear running light are technically a DOT no-no. I also installed very bright amber LED strips on the passenger peg brackets for excellent side visibility. Rear braking conspicuity could always be improved but for now I have two red LED strips mounted above and below the license plate (on a re-purposed dealer license plate surround frame) tied into the brake light circuit. I used to run a 65/70W halogen bulb (of course with a beefed-up wire gauge wise Eastern Beaver headlight battery-direct wiring kit) but this year installed one of Cyclops excellent new version LED headlight units, with the high beam on a Kisan Pathblazer P115W-H3 headlight modulator. I highly recommend headlight modulators!

I still have not tried installing either one of the hand guard sets you recommended but given the protection afforded by the FJ-09 which has the OEM heated grips, a barn door of a Givi wind screen with a added adjustable top spoiler and had guards for a KTM Adventurer in lieu of the Yamaha OEM Transformer hand guards, the FJ-09 will be my designated cold weather assault weapon. I did make a small summer shield for the FJ, as the OEM shield is abominable, as the Givi shield is oppressively hot much above 80 degrees.

Cleanliness is next to Godliness, and the action often catches problems in the bud.

How many miles on your VTR now?

tomb393

"Cleanliness is next to Godliness, and the action often catches problems in the bud."

I found loose screws on my chain guard and reflector while cleaning after our road trip.

waltr

skokievtr, I noticed this "Before that it was all Matchless and AJS singles and twins". I may want to communicate with you a little. I have a 1956 AJS twin that was my dads. He bought it new in 1956 when he got out of the navy. With a couple of small exceptions it is complete but real rough. Very low miles but sat outside in southern California so there is rust. He has been gone for over 10 years now but I want to restore it to be like it was the day he brought it home. I hope to start on it this winter.

Are you in OK?

killer5280

1998, bought in 2003 with about 6700 miles. Now has 35,000, but doesn't get ridden as much as the FZ1 these days.

skokievtr

I think he meant Km rather than miles...?

skokievtr

Not sure what you mean immediately above but I will help as much as I can long distance. PM me.