Heated grips
12-26-2007, 05:37 AM
#1
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MotoGP
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: NW North Carolina
Posts: 6,110
Heated grips
I installed my new grip heaters last night and plan to wire them in this PM after work. They went on unbelievably smooth. I am just a little unsure were the best place would be to rob the hot from.
Any tips on wiring?
BTW: You can get the grip heaters here for $22. http://www.rockymountainatv.com/prod...FamilyId=14160
Any tips on wiring?
BTW: You can get the grip heaters here for $22. http://www.rockymountainatv.com/prod...FamilyId=14160
12-26-2007, 05:48 AM
#2
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 281
I had connected mine directly to the battery with an on/off switch. I used to ride as cold as 11 degrees F but now I'm chicken and only ride above 30 deg F and so I don't need the grips any longer.
12-26-2007, 10:15 AM
#4
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SuperSport
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Pa
Posts: 734
I connected my Hot Grips to the little light above the headlight, that way if U leave them on they will turned off when U pull the key. The Hot Grips have a Hi / Lo toggle switch that I mounted on the left fairing. I've had mine for 2 years & they work very nice.
12-26-2007, 11:16 AM
#5
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SuperBike
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Posts: 2,116
12-26-2007, 10:17 PM
#9
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Location: NYC
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DONT connect directly to the battery; push starts in the cold can only lead to great unhappiness. Make sure whichever circuit you use its non essential, you dont want to blow a headlight fuse due to an abraded grip wire.
12-26-2007, 11:59 PM
#10
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 524
I've had heated grips on my last 4 bikes and have learned a few things along the way.
Most of the grips are designed for ATV's or sleds and as such don't allow for throttle rotation leading to the eventual failure at the solder joint.
To avoid that, unsolder the wires from the throttle side heating element and resolder them so that they run the length of the element. This places the solder joints at the end of the handle bar and instead of stressing the solder joint just twists the wires.
Position the element so that the wires are at the front of the grip and run parallel to each other. This prevents an unsightly and uncomfortable bulge.
Make sure that you leave enough of a gap between the grip and the switch housing to allow the throttle to return freely.
On the left side I use a throttle tube and grip ( with the throttle cable bellcrank removed ) that is riveted to the handlebar instead of wrapping tape around the clip-on/bar. This is essentially what BMW does and ensures that both sides reach the same temperature.
Power is sourced from the running lights, whether it be the little light above the headlamp or the running lights from either turnsignal.
This provides a fused and switched power source preventing the grips from killing your battery.
Hope this helps.
Kai Ju
Most of the grips are designed for ATV's or sleds and as such don't allow for throttle rotation leading to the eventual failure at the solder joint.
To avoid that, unsolder the wires from the throttle side heating element and resolder them so that they run the length of the element. This places the solder joints at the end of the handle bar and instead of stressing the solder joint just twists the wires.
Position the element so that the wires are at the front of the grip and run parallel to each other. This prevents an unsightly and uncomfortable bulge.
Make sure that you leave enough of a gap between the grip and the switch housing to allow the throttle to return freely.
On the left side I use a throttle tube and grip ( with the throttle cable bellcrank removed ) that is riveted to the handlebar instead of wrapping tape around the clip-on/bar. This is essentially what BMW does and ensures that both sides reach the same temperature.
Power is sourced from the running lights, whether it be the little light above the headlamp or the running lights from either turnsignal.
This provides a fused and switched power source preventing the grips from killing your battery.
Hope this helps.
Kai Ju
12-27-2007, 05:20 AM
#11
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MotoGP
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: NW North Carolina
Posts: 6,110
Thanks for all the help guys. I did not get it done but did get the front tore down a little to see what I want to do. The kids were going crazy wanting to go to Wally world to spend the Christmas cash that was burning a hole in their poor little pockets. LOL.. Probably will not get it tonight either because we are taking our 3-4th grade sunday school class out to a fun station for a late Christmas party.
Anywho: I want to mount the switch in the lower dashboard plastic tab. Should be out of the way yet still easily accessible. The grips are already mounted or I would try to resolder them. I will leave a lot of slack for the throttle movement. I am planning to grab the hot from the little top light. It is fused and easily accessible.
Thanks for everyones input.
Anywho: I want to mount the switch in the lower dashboard plastic tab. Should be out of the way yet still easily accessible. The grips are already mounted or I would try to resolder them. I will leave a lot of slack for the throttle movement. I am planning to grab the hot from the little top light. It is fused and easily accessible.
Thanks for everyones input.
12-27-2007, 02:09 PM
#13
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SuperBike
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,051
i used a relay. wired the heater to the battery ( through the relay ) then control the relay with any switched on voltage.
if you use existing wire check the size of the wire vs. the amperage going through it. no need to burn up the harness.
tim
if you use existing wire check the size of the wire vs. the amperage going through it. no need to burn up the harness.
tim
12-27-2007, 09:25 PM
#14
ATGATT
Superstock
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: South of Nashvegas TN
Posts: 253
Heated Grips
I got some heated grips from my Dad who does long distance riding (Iron Butt Association) and he included this fuse/relay kit to install mine:
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Produc...FB-4/fb-4.html
Once you wire the fuse block up and the relay to a hot/ground, I was good to go and I knew I had a fusable link and relay protecting the rest of the wiring. Now when I want to add anything, I can just wire to the fuse block. I can pull out my manual if you need a color code on a hot wire. I know the manual schematic came in handy finding the right wire. Or if you have a meter you can find one that way.
They are a great addition and I have used mine down into single digits. Just keeping the palm of my hand warm seems to make a big difference keeping my fingers warmer. That doesn't mean the tips of my fingers sometimes get cold, and I ride with one finger on the brake/clutch lever so that finger always stays cold. But it still makes a BIG difference.
I didn't solder mine but I left some slack for turning and made sure it had enough clearance. I also put on some Pro grips at the same time. I zip tied the switch to the left side of the clip on since I'm not sure where I want to permanently mount it.
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Produc...FB-4/fb-4.html
Once you wire the fuse block up and the relay to a hot/ground, I was good to go and I knew I had a fusable link and relay protecting the rest of the wiring. Now when I want to add anything, I can just wire to the fuse block. I can pull out my manual if you need a color code on a hot wire. I know the manual schematic came in handy finding the right wire. Or if you have a meter you can find one that way.
They are a great addition and I have used mine down into single digits. Just keeping the palm of my hand warm seems to make a big difference keeping my fingers warmer. That doesn't mean the tips of my fingers sometimes get cold, and I ride with one finger on the brake/clutch lever so that finger always stays cold. But it still makes a BIG difference.
I didn't solder mine but I left some slack for turning and made sure it had enough clearance. I also put on some Pro grips at the same time. I zip tied the switch to the left side of the clip on since I'm not sure where I want to permanently mount it.
01-06-2008, 01:07 PM
#17
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Arlington Heights, IL
Posts: 320
Can you post a picture or two of where you mounted your switch. I'd like to keep mine out of the elements, but I don't want it to look shitty. I am also thinking of installing an adjustable rehostat to vary the temp.
Also one thing I'm not real sure about the install, is how the wires come out from the grips, or where they are run (through the bars?). Pictures and help would be appreciated. I'd like to install them before I can ride this season.
Also one thing I'm not real sure about the install, is how the wires come out from the grips, or where they are run (through the bars?). Pictures and help would be appreciated. I'd like to install them before I can ride this season.
01-07-2008, 04:04 AM
#18
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I will get you some pictures soon. Tried them out this AM in upper 30's and worked good. I ended up mounting the switch on the inside fairing above the rightside radiator cap. You can only see the switch from right above the tank looking down.
12-15-2010, 10:48 AM
#21
jonesey
Squid
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: essex uk
Posts: 77
And now a question from a COMPLETE ELECTRICAL LAYMAN.
I appreciate that the power can be 'spliced' into an ignition wire to save accidental battery draining in the event of the grips being left on, what I need to know before I fit mine, is how is this splicing actually done?
Is it done with posi-taps?
And what would be the best wire to actually tap into?
All help MUCH appreciated, i've bought a new grips kit and just want to be 100% sure of what i'm doing.
Cheers all, Chris.
I appreciate that the power can be 'spliced' into an ignition wire to save accidental battery draining in the event of the grips being left on, what I need to know before I fit mine, is how is this splicing actually done?
Is it done with posi-taps?
And what would be the best wire to actually tap into?
All help MUCH appreciated, i've bought a new grips kit and just want to be 100% sure of what i'm doing.
Cheers all, Chris.
12-15-2010, 11:14 AM
#22
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,116
And now a question from a COMPLETE ELECTRICAL LAYMAN.
I appreciate that the power can be 'spliced' into an ignition wire to save accidental battery draining in the event of the grips being left on, what I need to know before I fit mine, is how is this splicing actually done?
Is it done with posi-taps?
And what would be the best wire to actually tap into?
All help MUCH appreciated, i've bought a new grips kit and just want to be 100% sure of what i'm doing.
Cheers all, Chris.
I appreciate that the power can be 'spliced' into an ignition wire to save accidental battery draining in the event of the grips being left on, what I need to know before I fit mine, is how is this splicing actually done?
Is it done with posi-taps?
And what would be the best wire to actually tap into?
All help MUCH appreciated, i've bought a new grips kit and just want to be 100% sure of what i'm doing.
Cheers all, Chris.
12-15-2010, 09:12 PM
#23
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 1,051
i mounted my relay in the tail section but it could also be in the front fairing. i used the rear plate light to power the relay, if you choose the front fairing you have your choice of headlight or center light.
the grip heater should state the amp draw which will determine the wire gauge to use. iirc, i used 18 guage wire for the power and grounded it at the fan terminal.
tim
the grip heater should state the amp draw which will determine the wire gauge to use. iirc, i used 18 guage wire for the power and grounded it at the fan terminal.
tim
Last edited by trinc; 12-15-2010 at 09:24 PM.
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