Apparently a R/R replacement is common.
#1
Apparently a R/R replacement is common.
It might not be the thing that solves the issues I am currently having but all fingers point to it regardless if testing it proves other wise.
I found burnt wire today coming out of my r/R and spliced in new ones and added new connectors.
My question after looking on eBay and seeing a new one for a 98 for 80 bucks and an after market one that looks simular and has the same connections is what is the most bang for my buck. I don't want to spend a lot but will if I can. If I can get one for 19.99 shipped vs 80.oo then I am down for the lower price.
I am no expert on this particular bike and am turning to you for some advice. I haven't done a price shopping g at the local honda store because they have a 20 percent mark up amd only carry OEM.
I found burnt wire today coming out of my r/R and spliced in new ones and added new connectors.
My question after looking on eBay and seeing a new one for a 98 for 80 bucks and an after market one that looks simular and has the same connections is what is the most bang for my buck. I don't want to spend a lot but will if I can. If I can get one for 19.99 shipped vs 80.oo then I am down for the lower price.
I am no expert on this particular bike and am turning to you for some advice. I haven't done a price shopping g at the local honda store because they have a 20 percent mark up amd only carry OEM.
#2
I bought a used mosfet zx10 r/r on ebay for about $30 shipped. It was a super cheap way to get into a mosfet. Then i bought $20 worth of connectors and wired it up.
You can see pics in my build thread.
The r/r thread will give all the different usable part numbers. I went with the zx10 r/r because it wasn't as known as the r1 r/r, so it was cheaper.
James
You can see pics in my build thread.
The r/r thread will give all the different usable part numbers. I went with the zx10 r/r because it wasn't as known as the r1 r/r, so it was cheaper.
James
#3
I bought a used mosfet zx10 r/r on ebay for about $30 shipped. It was a super cheap way to get into a mosfet. Then i bought $20 worth of connectors and wired it up.
You can see pics in my build thread.
The r/r thread will give all the different usable part numbers. I went with the zx10 r/r because it wasn't as known as the r1 r/r, so it was cheaper.
James
You can see pics in my build thread.
The r/r thread will give all the different usable part numbers. I went with the zx10 r/r because it wasn't as known as the r1 r/r, so it was cheaper.
James
I either use the eastern beaver VRR kiss or make my own using the same weatherproof connectors and fuse assembly and wire the VRR output directly to the battery and add a secondary battery ground cable Plus heatsink paste on the back of the VRR and other tweaks
Coincidentally I thought I had an issue within the last week or so with either the stator or VRR and it turned out I believe though I haven't finished testing to be a cracked case shorting out my auxiliary USB dual 2 amp power port
#4
M. Link, if you are tight on cash, I have a stock R/R (later model finned version) you can have. Just pay for shipping. It has been tested and is working normally. Just remember, it's not a MOSFET type and eventually will fail. It could be a few weeks after or even several years, but you will still need to replace it with a MOSFET unit.
#6
M. Link, if you are tight on cash, I have a stock R/R (later model finned version) you can have. Just pay for shipping. It has been tested and is working normally. Just remember, it's not a MOSFET type and eventually will fail. It could be a few weeks after or even several years, but you will still need to replace it with a MOSFET unit.
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